Clutch firewall adjuster initial adjustment?

[SVTSnak]

Howdy all!

I just bought the Steeda firewall clutch adjustment kit that comes with the double hook quadrant plate, the firewall adjuster and a clutch cable for my '96 Cobra.

My question is, what "settings" do you use when you initially install this setup? They don't say anything about that in the instructions that came with it. :( They just tell you how to install each piece individually and not as a "kit" per se.

Do I leave the firewall adjuster unscrewed all the way out? or do I screw it all the way in?

Plus, the end that goes on the trans has a nut & locknut on it as well for adjustment. So, I'm trying to figure out what to adjust where BEFORE I start tearing everything apart. :rotf:

I think it mentioned in the instructions that as the clutch wears, the cable will get TIGHTER...is this true? To me it would loosen the cable when the clutch wears, but apparently I'm wrong about that, according to the instructions, anyway.

So, if that's true...I'm guessing I should fully unscrew the firewall adjuster (making it "bigger", so to speak) and then use the locknut at the clutch fork end to tighten everything up and make it adjusted correctly according to the service manual. Then when the clutch cable tightens, I would screw in the firewall adjuster to loosen it up to put it back into correct adjustment...right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup: :D :cool:

Thanks,
Mat

[SVTSnak]

Wow...no one? I swear a bunch of people have bragged about putting these in before. :-(

Guess I'll just take my chances tomorrow morning. :(

[ausie]

Considering the post date, you probably found out already.

For starters, once you remove the factory fire wall housing for the clutch cable, and install the fire wall adjuster, best to start with the threads turned all the way in to ease the installation of the cable. The double hook quadrant allows for at least two length clutch cables.

When I got my kit from UPR, it came with the adjustable clutch cable. I attempted to use it, but it would not fit properly on my car. The cable end on the adjustable clutch cable only allowed for 1/2 inch of travel (did not matter what hook I used (quad had 3) or how far in the fire wall adjuster was.

The factory cable can be used if modified by removing the rubber washer and firewall mounting ring. It has been a long time since I replaced a cable.

The clutch cable may stretch over time from use and the fire wall adjuster is used to take up the slack by lengthening the distance between the cable end and quadrant. However, when the clutch wears down (since the clutch material is not very thick to begin with) the springs on the pressure plate will compensate for the loss of clutch material.

There have been many threads about adding a spring on the clutch cable at the fork end to allow for return to push the TOB away from the fingers of the clutch spring. Adjust the fire wall adjuster so that there is little slack on the cable, but you do not want it too tight as to place pressure on the fingers when the clutch pedal is not pressed in. If there is not enough tension on the cable it will be difficult to shift gears since the clutch and pressure plate will still be in contact. If it is too tight you may have clutch slip which will cause premature wear on the disc.

[kng9nothing]

thanks ausie. I've had mine in for a good while now, and I just guessed at it. Your post really helped clear it up. Now I've got to tweak mine just a bit:thumbsup: