oor splitter

[kevin]

attention. i bought the "replacement" splitter from ford racing. it's far more flexible than the original. hence, it appears to be more for the cosmetic iterest than useful. at 140+mph it causes a flutter, unlike the original that creates solid down force.

i've got a call into ford racing about it. i'll let ya know when i hear back

[NJ2000R]

its probably a softer more flexible urethane to prevent cracking....better for the street, but not so good for the track....

[kevin]

actually, it's more like a rubber compound

[Andy M]

Kevin,

I broke my original splitter the last time I ran at TWS. And I had just had it repaired and repainted at Magnolia. They did a great job with it... too bad it broke the first time out.

Anyway, I used superglue to glue the torn corners (same place it tore the first time) and I want to see if the superglue will hold under 130-140 mph speeds??? also, the fork underneath tore completely off the splitter. I brought it to a friend of mine today who runs an offshore rig fabrication shop. I am having him reinforce the forks with a larger area of metal, AND he will be cutting a new piece of the same gauge metal in the same size to put under the splitter. I will then drill holes and bolt up the two pieces with the splitter sandwiched in between. Then I will try this out at TWS next time I go out there. I also intend to try something new... I think I am going to have the same guys who sprayed my bed liner in my new truck (TUFF) spray the inside of the splitter for reinforcement. If all of this seems to work next time I go out to the track, I will then bring it back to David at Magnolia for some touch ups....and I will keep the reinforced one just for track use.

I will keep all of you posted on this and will post pictures with detailed instructions on what I had done to fix it.

[NJ2000R]

I just did the front fascia/bumper cover reinforcement....I took a different approach, which seems to have worked out equally as well as the other methods....I made up 2 "Z" brackets, which attach the bottom of the bumper cover to the cross member, or actual steel bumper, and tied the bottom together with 1" aluminum angle iron....all concealed and rigid in both directions....I'll take pics when I get a chance....

Andy, I had thought about spraying, or rather filling, the entire splitter with that expanding foam insulation as a means of giving it strength....I wont do the original one, but will try it on a replacement splitter....

[Andy M]

I put all of the new hardware on my new splitter and put it on the car last night. Seems to fit real nice, and looks great on the car. It looks so "unmolested" with no nics, stratches, etc.. :)

I also got the re-inforced forks back last night from my friend and it looks real nice. I will bolt it up to the old splitter this weekend and post some pics so you guys can see what I had done to it. Then, only some track time at TWS will prove whether or not it will hold up or not???? If so, then I will bring it back to my paint guy and have it touched up again....and I will use that one for track use only, and keep the brand new one for street use. I also have a third one which I will outfit with new hardware and keep that one wrapped up and stored for use ONLY at car show events.

[kevin]

since i've been travelling (still and again) i've had some conversations with ford racing. they say it's the same material and molds as the original. i've told them many times it's not. when i get home again (next week) i'll be sending them a letter that they can operate from.


i'll let ya know what (if anything) happens

[Coop]

Originally posted by kevin
since i've been travelling (still and again) i've had some conversations with ford racing. they say it's the same material and molds as the original. i've told them many times it's not. when i get home again (next week) i'll be sending them a letter that they can operate from.


i'll let ya know what (if anything) happens

A guy who goes by Steve Snake Driver posted a link to this over on BON. Since I too purchased the FRPP splitter, this post caught my attention.

Kevin, keep us posted on your progress with FRPP. I contacted them and got the same info. The flutter you noted actually starts much sooner, somewhere between 100mph and 110mph depending on wind conditions. Sometimes sooner in strong cross winds. If you take it out at night, you'll notice the headlight beams bouncing around long before you actually feel the vibration. Eventually, the vibration can be felt through the steering.

My first time out at 80mph or 90mph, the metal "fork" as someone called it, ripped right off and ended up gouging my drivers front tire. Had to replace that.

Reinforcing with aluminum will help, though the angle or U-channel aluminum does not do much good (too much flex at high speed). I ended up fabricating a rectangular brace made of full box aluminum. It is still light weight, but very strong. Rather than using rivets, I used bolts and fender washers to secure the brace to the chin spoiler. Two mounting points on the rear hold it to the lower radiator support, and two 1 1/4" x 3/16" strips secure the front portion to the steel bumper support behind the fascia. Until I physically mounted it to the steel bumper, I couldn't eliminate the flex. Removing it is a bit more difficult, but I can reach the front brace bolts from the lower duct in the stock front fascia.

On a lighter note, hopefully the additional "hidden" brace will help to make the splitter somewhat more theft proof than simply using the quarter turn fasteners only!


__________________
99 Cobra coupe heavily modded daily driver!
(I do all my own work, including engine, transmission and differential rebuilds)
Returnless fuel, T-56, built motor w/cams, P&P heads (just to name a few mods)
570rwhp/466tq on only 10.5 psi boost
Official 1/4 mile: 11.68@125.4 1.81 60' limited only by the IRS and road race suspension
A 10 sec capable car!

A Cobra on the surface, a Viper underneath!
http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/cobrasig/gaugefull2a.jpg http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/cobrasig/side1a.jpg http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/cobrasig/engine1a.jpg http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/kmember/coilover1b.jpg
Gauges - zoom in (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/cobrasig/gauges%20large.JPG)|| Exterior - larger view (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/cobrasig/side1.jpg)|| -- Engine-zoom in -- (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/cobrasig/engine%20large.JPG)||Front suspension (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/kmember/coilover1a.jpg)

Other stuff (partial list):
Roll cage (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/cobrasig/roll%20cage.JPG)
Trunk mods (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/cobrasig/trunk%20mods.JPG)
T-56 R&R guide tube (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/misc/T56%20repair.htm)
T-56 R&R input shaft breakage (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/misc/T56%20R&R.htm)
Spring cleaning (http://www.rdpla.net/users/coop/pics/misc/SpringCleaning.htm)

http://www.svttexas.com

[NO 5 OH]

I see the big Coop dog from BON has made it over here to our site... long time no talk man, how's it goin' :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Have you had any more incounters with the Viper not too long ago in the past ;) ;)

[Andy M]

Coop:

That is one helluva machine you have there?!!! Beautiful!! :thumbsup:

[Coop]

Hey NO 5 OH, LOL! Thought I'd join up and get in on this thread. Trying to find out who else bought the splitter. There's strength in numbers and maybe we can make FRPP come clean on the issue. No Vipers lately, since I wanted to wait until I rebuilt my diff as well. Now that it is ready to go, so I may have to go hunting again :D.

Thanks, Andy!

[johnbasf]

Coop, when you say built motor in your sig, what have you done? Great ride! Sorry about getting off track. Send me a PM if you want.

[Coop]

Originally posted by johnbasf
Coop, when you say built motor in your sig, what have you done? Great ride! Sorry about getting off track. Send me a PM if you want.

I pulled the engine and had Houston Performance build the short block for me. I bought a stock Ford block and FMS crank (Cobra's already have forged cranks), then Steve (at HP) replaced everything else with aftermarket parts. J&E forged pistons, Hastings chromemoley rings, Eagle H-beam forged rods, Federal Mogul race bearings (rod and main), ARP main studs and head studs, SHM billet oil pump. All gaskets are Ford and they work fine.

Previous engine had Manley steel rods, but through a mixup in communication, I ended up with the Eagle rods on this one. Eagles are fine. In fact, my original stock rods were able to withstand quite a bit of abuse and the Eagle's much stronger. Lesson learned from the previous built engine -- don't use Ford oil pumps. Spend the money and get the billet pump from SHM.

I also had HP port my heads and custom grind the cams for a blower setup. Made a tremendous difference. I assembled the long block and re-installed. The money saved on labor bought some nice shop tools, LOL! To that, I added a Canton race oil pan, windage tray, FMS billet steel flywheel, and assorted clutches :D.

[NJ2000R]

pics of the splitter reinforcements I did....I havent 'speed tested' the mods yet, but everything does feel very rigid in both up and down directions....let me know if you need dimensions for the metal....but please be patient, as I'm busy getting ready for gingerman this week....
front fascia mods (http://www.superford.org/registry/index.php?vID=1101&fs=1&dni=1&vs0=_1434_&vs1=&vs2=&s1=&s2=&s3=&s4=&s5=&s6=&s7=&s8=&s9=&s10=&s11=&s12=&s13=0&s14=&s15=&s16=&s17=%20desc&s18=&s19=&s20=)

[Andy M]

Originally posted by Coop


I pulled the engine and had Houston Performance build the short block for me. I bought a stock Ford block and FMS crank (Cobra's already have forged cranks), then Steve (at HP) replaced everything else with aftermarket parts. J&E forged pistons, Hastings chromemoley rings, Eagle H-beam forged rods, Federal Mogul race bearings (rod and main), ARP main studs and head studs, SHM billet oil pump. All gaskets are Ford and they work fine.

Previous engine had Manley steel rods, but through a mixup in communication, I ended up with the Eagle rods on this one. Eagles are fine. In fact, my original stock rods were able to withstand quite a bit of abuse and the Eagle's much stronger. Lesson learned from the previous built engine -- don't use Ford oil pumps. Spend the money and get the billet pump from SHM.

I also had HP port my heads and custom grind the cams for a blower setup. Made a tremendous difference. I assembled the long block and re-installed. The money saved on labor bought some nice shop tools, LOL! To that, I added a Canton race oil pan, windage tray, FMS billet steel flywheel, and assorted clutches :D. Coop,

Nice dude!!

btw: I am currently in discussions with Steve at HP to build me a new 5.4 motor for my R, so I can tuck my original motor away for safe keeping.

We are shooting for 500 HP normally aspirated. We will be using a 5.4 block that Steve has on hand and we will go with some JE forged 10.5:1 pistons. All of the good stuff as in your motor too. Then we will be using a Navigator head and do some port/polishing to improve the flow. Only real question right now is what intake to use?? we want to keep the original intake on the original motor. I am also planning on some custom long tube headers. We would like the new motor to be somewhere around 425-450 at the wheels.

Only problem is... I am certain it will not pass the new Texas emissions?? I will have to figure out how to deal with this???? any suggestions??????? Do I have to pay someone off?

[Coop]

Andy,

It'll pass Texas emissions . . . at least for another two to three years. My understanding is that right now, only cars from 95 and earlier are required to do the "dyno" test (rollers plus sniffer). I took mine in a couple of months ago and got the low down from an inspector.

On a lighter note, I had my o/r prochamber on there and he assumed it was one single huge high flow cat, so he passed it LOL (the visual). I'm sure I'll have to deal with the sniffer in a couple of years and I'm not sure how the cams will respond, but I've heard that keeping your idle up higher helps (switch chip time!).

[NO 5 OH]

Originally posted by Coop
Hey NO 5 OH, LOL! Thought I'd join up and get in on this thread. Trying to find out who else bought the splitter. There's strength in numbers and maybe we can make FRPP come clean on the issue. No Vipers lately, since I wanted to wait until I rebuilt my diff as well. Now that it is ready to go, so I may have to go hunting again :D.

Thanks, Andy!

Well, it's been forever since I've talked to you, so I thought I'd give you a warm welcome to our side of the tracks ;) It's great to have you over here, and may I add that the SCMC is one great Cobra club to be in. There's many advantages to being in the club, plus there's not a lot of "smack talk" going on here such as there is sometimes on the BON.

BTW... what's Beefcake up to these days ;) ;) :rotf: :rotf:

[Coop]

Thanks for the warm welcome, NO 5 OH! I think Beef is still selling vitamins and playing with Lightning trucks. This seems like a pretty good board and probably reflective of a pretty good club, like you mentioned. I'll have to keep visiting.

[taylorp]

Coop,

Have you track/high speed tested your fix?

I didn't see the result in this thread. My apologies if I missed it.

[Coop]

TaylorP, I've high speed tested it (to 140) and the mod did the trick for me. Haven't made it to the open track yet, though.

[taylorp]

Coop,

Thanks for the response. I'm glad your fix worked. If you think of it, let me know how it behaved on the track. I have had to take mine off at the last couple of events.

There is a race shop locally that's doing the work on the fascia/splitter. I showed him the printout of the "fix" and he said he will be doing something similar but, he feels, more rigid. I'm keeping my fingers crossed....

It's tough keeping the Cobra under 80 which is the lowest speed I have felt the flutter.

Pam


:(