road racing the 95R

[95cobraR]

I would like to hear from anyone who has raced the '95 Cobra R. I have recently purchased a stock R and will convert it to a road race car. I have had a road race liscense for 12 years so I have a basic understanding of set-ups.

I am wondering:

Did you install a custom rollbar or order pre-bent (such as Max. Motorsports bar)?

Will the rear end limited slip hold up or did you have to add extra clutch paks? Or an after-market unit?

Is the stock oil cooler adequate?

Any problems with the power steering (after it gets hot)?

What H-pipe did you use? Or straight pipes? What headers did you find works best?

Panhard bar?

Is the stock 2 1/2 neg. camber suitable? Or are camber plates neccesary for different tracks?

Did you use the recommended GM fluid in the trans? Or is there a suitable alternative? (I don't like the idea of GM anything).

I have been playing with the Koni shock adjustments. It seems to work well fully tight on smooth roads. What did you find?

Thanks for your help.
Doc
Atlanta

[Cobra-R]

Originally posted by 95cobraR
would like to hear from anyone who has raced the '95 Cobra R. I have recently purchased a stock R and will convert it to a road race car. I have had a road race liscense for 12 years so I have a basic understanding of set-ups.

I am wondering:

Did you install a custom rollbar or order pre-bent (such as Max. Motorsports bar)?
I think mine is a autopower bolt in, custom would be a better choice though

Will the rear end limited slip hold up or did you have to add extra clutch paks? Or an after-market unit?

So far so good, car has 4600 miles with probly about 3000 of them on the track

Is the stock oil cooler adequate?

Engine oil temp does run close to 300 degrees, probly higher then it should be, but how much larger of a cooler would you be able to run?

Any problems with the power steering (after it gets hot)?

Not yet, there is a seperate cooler for the ps oil. Shouldn't be a problem.

What H-pipe did you use? Or straight pipes? What headers did you find works best?

Bassani X (catless) with Bassani mufflers and dumps

Panhard bar?

Yes, Griggs adjustable. Had MM on before but wanted the adjustability of the griggs (MM phb is for sale if you are interested?)

Is the stock 2 1/2 neg. camber suitable? Or are camber plates neccesary for different tracks?

Should be good for most. I am running -3.5 now, 2.5 wasn't enough for my setup

Did you use the recommended GM fluid in the trans? Or is there a suitable alternative? (I don't like the idea of GM anything).

been using the synchromesh GM fluid. Been working fine.

note: If your tranny is original, keep an eye on it for leaks. They will crack the tranny case and start leaking, although the tranny will still be fine mechanically. New updated stronger cases are available.

I have been playing with the Koni shock adjustments. It seems to work well fully tight on smooth roads. What did you find?

I am running Koni adjustables(not the original R shocks) with coilovers, very nice upgrade.


Congrats on the purchase, you are going to love the car. :thumbsup:

Brian

[95cobraR]

Brian,
I used the Hoosier road race radial on a '94 Cobra before I got this car. What race tire do you like most on the R?
Have do done any mods to the motor? (except timing, etc.)
P/S pump makes noise when cold. Is this normal?
Any problems with fuel when the tank gets low?
I noted my fuel guage is mostly worthless. I guess the sender has a hard time reading fuel level in the bladder.
I am currently using the seats out of my '94 Cobra. What race seat do you like in the car?
300 degrees seems too high on oil temp. Is your temp sender located before or after the oil cooler?

Good luck this summer at the track.
Doc
atlanta
'95 R is #113
'94 Cobra is rare red w/ black cloth int. #3908 of 5009

[Cobra-R]

Originally posted by 95cobraR
Brian,
I used the Hoosier road race radial on a '94 Cobra before I got this car. What race tire do you like most on the R?
Have do done any mods to the motor? (except timing, etc.)
P/S pump makes noise when cold. Is this normal?
Any problems with fuel when the tank gets low?
I noted my fuel guage is mostly worthless. I guess the sender has a hard time reading fuel level in the bladder.
I am currently using the seats out of my '94 Cobra. What race seat do you like in the car?
300 degrees seems too high on oil temp. Is your temp sender located before or after the oil cooler?

Good luck this summer at the track.
Doc
atlanta
'95 R is #113
'94 Cobra is rare red w/ black cloth int. #3908 of 5009

I have been using Hoosiers also, although I did try the Kuhmo's Ecsta V700's at two events this year. (I will be going back to exclusivly using Hoosiers ;) )

Motor is stock except for the air pump has been removed, cold air K&N filter, and the timing is set at 12 degree's.

I have had alot of problem with what I believe is vapor lock on really hot days and/or when we get a ton of track time in a short period of time. I had the problem friday at Mid America Motorplex when we were running 30 minutes on, then 30 minutes off. I went over and bought 12 gallons of race fuel ($64.00 ouch) and didn't have a problem the rest of the day. I think race fuel has a higher vapor temperature and resist's vapor lock better then regular 92 octane.

Can't say that I remeber ever hearing any unusual power steering pump noises.

Fuel guage takes up space on the dash, not sure if it does much more than that. I went out one session friday with the guage reading full, came in from 30 minutes of driving and it was below 1/4. :(

I run Recaro SRD's, I like them, but that is very subjective.

I should have been a little clearer on the oil temp. My dad also has a 95R, hw has a engine oil temp guage mounted in the oil pan which is reading in the 280-300 degree range. I have no doubt mine is every bit at hot as his. I have coolant temp and oil pressure guages only in my car.

Hope it helps, Brian

[Cobra R Man]

Doc,

I have a '95 "R" still in professional race trim if you're interested in a look see. I'm in Pensacola, FL. (not all that far). You're wecome to visit on a week end and bring a note pad and camera. If you send me your e-mail address, I can send PICS (I think). Going to NASH. (SAAC), and maybe LOWES for the 100th. Do you race SVRA? I did '97-'99 with a '66 Shelby. If so, maybe we met.

[95cobraR]

Yea, thanks, I think I would like to see the set up. I have some info/pics of a few that raced (Snipes car, Zippo car, Steeda car).

We may have raced together. I have done some SVRA events. I do mostly HSR. Both since about 1990. Just did my 12th straight Mitty. Picture of my '65 attached from the SVRA 12 hour.

I'll PM you with email address. When is the SAAC event in Nashville?
take care...dj..

[sn8kbit]

SAAC event in Nashville is Memorial Day weekend (next weekend!). See you guys there...

[kevin]

those of you going to nashville for saac. i'll be there as well. car #80, maroon cobra

[sn8kbit]

Your going?? Well shoot, there goes my weekend....:rotf: :rotf: :thumbsup: :rotf: :rotf:

[kevin]

Originally posted by sn8kbit
Your going?? Well shoot, there goes my weekend....:rotf: :rotf: :thumbsup: :rotf: :rotf:

ribs baybeeeeeeeeeeeeeee:thumbsup: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

[GUMBALL]

First question, what series are you planning on running? Get their rule book, and build your cage accordingly, for a racecar definately a weld-in. If the rule book allows, tie the cage to the front and rear shock towers - big increase in suspension rigidity. If you can not weld or fabricate, get a race shop or fab shop to do it. If you don't know of one, tell me where you are, maybe I can send you to someone.

In addition to your cage, I would suggest buying a GOOD racing seat (that has slots for a 6 point harness), and the harness (check mfg date) Follow instructions and mount both properly, using the correct hardware.

Also, for ANY competition car - I suggest a 12 lb AFFF fire system. (halon is expensive, and over-rated as a fire supressant)

Limited slip: the stock one is marginal at best, would recommend an Auburn or Torsen, and don't forget the diff. cooler.

Engine oil cooler: the stock one will not be sufficient, you will probably need something about 8" by 10" ( 260 degrees is max temp) Install it with the fittings either to the side, or to the top (otherwise it will not fill) and make sure there is airflow to it and away. Also, plumb oil temp gauge sender as close to oil pump as possible.

You will possibly need a larger power steering cooler. Also, suggest a larger power steering pulley, so you don't over-drive the pump at high revs.

For all Live Axle Cars - Panhard Bar: The Mustang rear roll center is very high, and a good panhard bar, properly installed, will lower the roll center by about 8 inches, and increases rear anti-squat. Must be adjustable - the bar must be horizontal at ride height.

Camber Plates: The Mustang likes a lot of caster - as much as 6 or 7 degrees. KB (www.kennybrown.com (http://www.kennybrown.com/)) makes a set with caster pre-set, which makes camber much easier to adjust. When you do camber plates, install strut tower brace as well.

There are several companies that make a trans. fluid, Red Line, Royal Purple...

You may find the fuel gauge is only accurate when car is sitting still due to fuel slosh...and the design of the Mustang tank causes a fuel starvation when less than 1/4, again due to slosh...

With the single adjustable Koni's (rebound only), suggest starting at 1/3 turn up from full soft on the front, and 1/2 turn up from full soft on the rear - adjust from there. Too much rebound can cause the suspension to jack itself down thru a long corner, and also, could cause corner entry understeer/oversteer. For a full race car - suggest double adjustable coil overs...greater adjustability to fine tune, and much broader choice of spring rates.....

If you run events on shorter tracks, you will need to add ducting to cool the front brakes. Buy the silflex (orange) tubing in 3" or 4". Run the tubing from airdam to the center of the rotor (the spinning rotor acts like an air pump)
Higher quality brake pads are a good idea, and several companies make pads that work well for track and street - Pagid, Hawk, Performance Friction, Stoptech. (I use a combination of Hawk Blue in front, and Hawk Black in rear)
Several companies make a good brake fluid - ATE blue, Motorcraft dot 4, Motul 600, Wilwood 600, AP 551. Bleed brakes before the event, and if necessary, after each session.

Buy a GOOD tire pressure gauge, and pyrometer (the infrared gun works for everything else but tires), use them religiously, record all data, adjust car accordingly.

Finally, Caroll Smith has written a set of books that are very good for anyone working with racecars:
Prepare to Win
Tune to Win
Engineer to Win
Drive to Win
Nuts, Bolts, and Fasteners....(screw to win ??)

Have fun.......:cool:

[GUMBALL]

P.S.
Suggest starting with the following suspension settings:

Camber
FT - 1.5 neg.
RE - 1.0 neg.

Caster - as much as possible, make sure both sides are equal

Toe
FT - 1/8 to 3/16 out (total)for long track
as much as 1/4 out (total) for short tracks
this will greatly aid turn-in, but will make the car wander in straight line
definately not for street

RE - 1/16 to 1/8 toe in (total)