315 tire questions.

[Butcher]

Originally Posted by InfamousSVT

Thanks Jimmie, I was worried at first reading all the post about getting the 315's on the 10.5 rims fitting, but they work and the car still rides great! I was running it a couple weeks ago and went up to around 120 - 130mph and no issues with the .25" spacers so I'm going to leave it the way it is!!

Great! Glad it worked for you like you wanted. Wish you'd have done this a couple months back when I was beating my head against a wall with it so I could have learned about it then.

Jimmie

[ORANGE CRUSH]

Originally Posted by JTSVT

I have the stock 9'' rim....Im running Nitto 315's w/ no problems...Ive heard that Nittos are the only ones that will fit on the 9''ers...I could be wrong, if so please chime in---JT

Yep, you'er right.

[SlowSVT]

I have the Goodyear 315 D3's on ASF 17 x 10.5 rims. They rubbed on the upper control arm bracket on the drivers side and was real close to the IRS bolt. I had to use spaces. Once it did that I needed to install longer wheel studs. This is what I just posted on the SVT board

Instructions for installing longer wheel studs


When removing the caliper to get the disc off the parking brake cable gets in the way of one of the bolts and is a real PITA. Remove the bolts that the caliper slides on and rotate the caliper away best you can, the C clip that holds the cable, the screw that hold the cable clamp on the lower control arm. You will have to still rounded screw driver pry the cable out of the way so you can get a socket oner the caliper mounting bolt (don't use a scarp squared screw driver. It will beat-up on the plastic parking brake liner).

I was able to pop the old stud out with a pair of C-clamps and a bar of steel between them as someone on the board suggested. It worked real well and I was able to do it without removing the shaft or pounding on the axle. If the stud was stubbern I would give it one wack with a hand sledge and it popped right out. To install the new stud find a wheel lug with the most number of threads you can find and ground the end off to make it open (grind it flat and perpendicular to the tapped hole so it won't gall the hub or punch through the washer). Now I have an extra long installation nut with lots of threads so it will engage many more threads then a regular nut. Don't use a grade 8 nut that might strip the stud. Use a hard 1/2" waster under the lug and draw the stud through the hub. Do it slowly and don't crank it down all at once. Use ani-seize on everything.


What I ended up doing us installing Moroso 3" wheel studs. The problem I had with just about every extended wheel stud I saw was that they where threaded all the way up to the spline. The stock stud had a 9/16" dia. shoulder on it that the disc sat on. Whithout this the disc would be loose and rock back and forth on the studs (not good) under breaking and acceleration. Solution: cut a small piece of 9/16 OD x 1/2" ID x 3/16 lg steel tubing and tap it all the way down until it seats on the axle hub (use lots of ani-seize). Presto! nice tight fitting disc. With 3/8" hubcentric (http://www.lightningforceperformanc...?productID=1168) wheel spacers I was able to use the extra long closed end wheel lugs for a truck which took up the excess stud length. Now I have about 24 turns on the lug before it clamps the wheel.


It's a bit of a hassle, One side took me 2-3 hours but once I got the routine down the other side was done in half that time. I'm real happy with the results

[tazzracing1]

I would like to know if anyone has an idea on the largest tire that will fit a 97' Cobra. I have heard that I may have to remove the quad shock. Thank You for the help.

[InfamousSVT]

Originally Posted by SlowSVT

What I ended up doing us installing Moroso 3" wheel studs.

SlowSVT,
Was the over all length of your wheel studs 3" or just the thread length? Steeda offers a 2.5" wheel stud that is made by ARP and was wondering what the thread length you had was, cause I want to use the stock lugs!

- J