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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 82
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Oil Separator
Is anyone knowledgeable about the Steeda Oil Separator? Specifically, is the oil from the breather that goes back into the intake charge (without any separator) needed to lube the valves, injectors or anything else?
I installed the separator and it dumps a lot of oil in about 100 miles of hard driving. Someone asked me if the oil flowing through the OE breather is needed for any intake valves or injectors. I said I had no idea...so, here I am on the forum. I'll check with Steeda and some Ford service departments, but I wonder what you all know about this.
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Mods: Red Brembo 355mm Gran Tourismo front brakes, High-temp brake cooling ducts, Red Ford Motorsport rear calipers with matching Brembo rear slotted rotors and hawk pads, K&N Filtercharger, Borla cat-back (w/ heat wrap at the diff), Bosch Platinum Plus-2 plugs, Eibach Pro Kit, Red Sparco alcantara seats (w/ custom lowered seat racks), rear seat-delete, KB strut tower brace, Kirban shifter, Black Saleen-style rims (18x9 / 18x10), Goodyear F1 GS-D3s (255/285), Steeda battery relocation kit, Steeda Oil Separator, Steeda race wing (black w/ aluminum side plates), Shinoda front chin spoiler, Steeda clutch quadrant and firewall cable adjuster, Silverstar headlamps/foglamps. |
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#2 | ||||||
track deprived
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Missouri City (Sienna), Tx
Posts: 5,539
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NO, the oil is NOT needed(before emission requirements, there used to be a breather there, and some people actually use breathers instead of the catch cans). In fact, it does more damage than anything not having it there, due to the fact that oil gets sucked into the intake and gets into your Air/Fuel mixture. That brings your octane rating down, and for a car requiring minimum 91(93) octane, that is BAD.
My car would ping badly under acceleration before I put on the oil separator (made my own for 1/4 of what steeda charges for the same parts on their site), to bad it was too late and my bearings were already shot from detonation. I cleaned out my intake, and it was caked with oil, which is a BAD thing.
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#3 |
SCMC Member
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So firme, you are saying that oil separator is a good thing. Could you give a little more info on what you used, where you did it. I am considering putting one in my car, but relly have not done any research yet. Been a little busy.
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1997 Kenny Brown Cobra Convertible! ![]() 1996 Mystic Cobra Coupe, Griggs and MM track ready SOLD 2003 Mineral Gray Cobra convertible #466, 1 of 152 SOLD |
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#4 | |||||||
track deprived
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Missouri City (Sienna), Tx
Posts: 5,539
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Quote:
Right now at work, I don't have the exact parts list, but here is a basic run down. You definitely need one on the drivers side going from the PCV valve to the intake, that is where the oil gets sucked in. I also have one on the passengers side, which sucks fresh air into the engine (note, the filter direction is the opposite on the passenger side, as it sucks air in, instead of bowing air/oil out. Yes the filters are directional, so take note of which way they are installed) . I don't think the passengers side is necessary (as it doesn't actually catch anything), but I put it there just in case. At the least it keeps the engine from sucking in moisture. I got a air compressor filter from Home Depot (don't remember off the top of my head if its a 1/4 or 3/8), the correct fittings for inlet/outlet of the filter to hook up the lines, fuel line to hook it to the PCV/Intake, and fabricate a mounting bracket or just find a good spot to zip-tie it. Thats it. For reference, and a picture, check out the one Steeda sells http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/555-3710.htm .
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 82
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...to bad it was too late and my bearings were already shot from detonation. I cleaned out my intake, and it was caked with oil, which is a BAD thing.[/QUOTE]
What was your mileage that you notice the pinging and ultimately the bearing being shot? Thanks for the feedback.
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Mods: Red Brembo 355mm Gran Tourismo front brakes, High-temp brake cooling ducts, Red Ford Motorsport rear calipers with matching Brembo rear slotted rotors and hawk pads, K&N Filtercharger, Borla cat-back (w/ heat wrap at the diff), Bosch Platinum Plus-2 plugs, Eibach Pro Kit, Red Sparco alcantara seats (w/ custom lowered seat racks), rear seat-delete, KB strut tower brace, Kirban shifter, Black Saleen-style rims (18x9 / 18x10), Goodyear F1 GS-D3s (255/285), Steeda battery relocation kit, Steeda Oil Separator, Steeda race wing (black w/ aluminum side plates), Shinoda front chin spoiler, Steeda clutch quadrant and firewall cable adjuster, Silverstar headlamps/foglamps. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Gastonia, NC
Posts: 1,960
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Hell yeah, I agree with Firme 100%. Don't purchase the one from Steeda or other aftermarket places, go to Wal-mart purchase the filter and get some 3/8" hose from your local hardware store with some clamps etc...
When I get a chance I'll take a picture of mine and show you how I did it if you would like. Great mod and only cost about $8 and a little of your time compared to the ones Steeda etc.. are selling. ![]()
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#7 |
Don't let the dog drive
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If you are interested, JLT is designing one that inserts between the PCV and the valve cover. This was the only place where I saw it, could not find it on the JLT web site though. http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...oon-53006.html
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#8 | |
R&R4ever
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#9 | |||||||
track deprived
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Missouri City (Sienna), Tx
Posts: 5,539
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Quote:
![]() OH, I forgot to mention, I did the "wiremesh in the valve cover channels" mod as well to help fight oil in the intake. ![]() ![]() The part by Tucker(JLT) is basically what I did to my valve cover, but in a can. Nice piece. You can still make the rest of the system yourself and add that one part. You can never have too many helpers in the "get the oil out of the intake" fight.
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#10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Gastonia, NC
Posts: 1,960
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Quote:
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#11 |
Registered User
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Here is my separator install. You will see many variations of this but they all do the same thing. With them, your octane, tune and engine are safe. The gauge on the drivers side is not necessary. I just put it in to monitor my vacuum (~20" Hg is normal) since there are a few more connections as a result of the installation. The passenger side separator has not had any oil in it yet. If your PCV valve gets stuck, the blow by will come out here but it is normally an air entry point. Most take the filter element out of the separator. Hope this helps some...........
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#12 |
Don't let the dog drive
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I am using the SHM oil filter on the passenger side to filter oil on the intake. It is a bit bulky but it works and looks like it is supposed to be there. I did however remove the plastic fittings and replaced them with brass since they do not get soft with the heat. As for the PCV valve, I posted pictures about a year ago and recently deleted what I posted in hopes to regain being able to post pictures again but lost that privilege when my first membership ran out. I machined a large canister that almost looks the same as the one on the JLT preliminary picture. The only difference, I installed the PCV valve inside the canister (since it is lacking a 90 degree elbo I used a standard 1/4 barbed hose connector in the top portion of the canister which fits the stock rubber connection. I can also remove the barbed fitting and use a straight threaded connector to attach the oil separator directly to it since there is enought length in the canister and it will support the weight of the separator. Directly below the PCV in the body of the canister is plenty of room to install a wire mesh air filter used in high pressure air line release valves or I could place the Oil separator pellet (looks like aluminum oxide) in the same spot. The bottom vent was made with a chamfered center with a small diameter hole (3/16) then it opens up to the size of the PCV valve just above where it installs into the valve cover. The entire unit is sealed with a high temp rubber O ring suitable for use with oil, and clamped with 4 cap screws.
There are other units available such as the Greedy oil catch cans. There was another site that had some really nice PVC catch cans called accurate machine works but tried to link to the site and it did not come up. That site had some really nice pieces. I did use the air/oil separator for a short while but wanted someting that did not require mounting by drilling holes or adding extra parts that may or may not hold up to the temperature or contamination from oil or cause a vacuum leak. I like the idea of using transmission oil cooler hoses ![]()
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2004 SVT Cobra, Silver, February 2004 SVT Build # 2485 out of 3768 SLP Loudmouth Cat-back ![]() UPR double lock firewall adjuster ![]() UPR GMS extreme double hook quadrant ![]() Wheels: Ford SVT 10th anniv. wheels (track duty) SVE 10th anniv. style 17x9F, 10x10.5R BBS RK Plasma 18x8.5F, 18x10R (retired) (retired) 2001 black SVT Cobra, October 2001 missed but not forgotten ![]() |
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#13 |
Registered User
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Yes, that is an industrial grade vac/psi gauge. As stated, I put it in to keep an eye on things in that area, since it is critical. I have a boost gauge mounted on the steering column. Could have went to vac/boost there but didn't want the needle jumping around between vac/boost. Actually, I'm not really sure how much vacuum that line behind the glove box is subjected to.
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#14 | |
Don't let the dog drive
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Quote:
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2004 SVT Cobra, Silver, February 2004 SVT Build # 2485 out of 3768 SLP Loudmouth Cat-back ![]() UPR double lock firewall adjuster ![]() UPR GMS extreme double hook quadrant ![]() Wheels: Ford SVT 10th anniv. wheels (track duty) SVE 10th anniv. style 17x9F, 10x10.5R BBS RK Plasma 18x8.5F, 18x10R (retired) (retired) 2001 black SVT Cobra, October 2001 missed but not forgotten ![]() |
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#15 |
Don't let the dog drive
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Found this which may be of interest
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/pdf/PCV%20Bypass.pdf
Has some merit, but what to do about positive pressure under boost is the problem.
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2004 SVT Cobra, Silver, February 2004 SVT Build # 2485 out of 3768 SLP Loudmouth Cat-back ![]() UPR double lock firewall adjuster ![]() UPR GMS extreme double hook quadrant ![]() Wheels: Ford SVT 10th anniv. wheels (track duty) SVE 10th anniv. style 17x9F, 10x10.5R BBS RK Plasma 18x8.5F, 18x10R (retired) (retired) 2001 black SVT Cobra, October 2001 missed but not forgotten ![]() |
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