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#1 |
Registered User
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4 wheel alignment settings?
Can a veteran driver help me with a good street/track alignment settings? I've done two OTs, just installed the complete IRS bushing kit, and need an alignment, which is scheduled for next Tuesday 8/28. I posted on one other board, and the only specs I've received were these, so how do they look?
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/f...k-88275-3.html Originally Posted by ShelbyGuy depends on the track and the driver ![]() caster and toe are for the driver, camber and tire pressures are for the tires. a good start is: front: 1/16 toe out -1.5 degrees negative camber 6.5 degrees caster rear: 1/16" toe in -1.2 degrees negative camber I checked with the alignment shop today, and for future reference I have the stock settings: front caster 3.1 degree left, 3.3 degree right front camber -0.8 degree left, -1.0 degree right front toe-in 0.125 both sides rear camber -0.8 left and right rear toe-in 0.10 left and right Tim
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05 GTO Cyclone Gray, 3 season 6 speed 03 Cobra Redfire, black bullitts, blue handle 87 GN T-tops TA-49, alky inject, PS IC 87 Dark Red Turbo T; stock, 7.74 @ 87.9, 1.69 60', SOLD 86 Dark Carmine T-type; 11.0 @ 122, 1.51 60' DRs, SOLD |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Bern, NC
Posts: 50
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Not sure what other advice you got on the other threads... but here's my suggestion:
Set the car up neutral for your first half a dozen or so events. Remember, the point isn't to be faster, its to be BETTER. Your goal right now is to learn the car, and get consistent with it's normal set-up. Only then will you really be able to KNOW (and not just guess) that the mechanical changes you make to the car are doing any good or not. So... assuming the stock set up to be a tight one (tends to push/understeer), I'd set the toe on the front and rear wheels to zero. This will help the car do what YOU want it to do, not what IT wants to do. It's always better to have some negative camber, but not too much. I think -1.5 is a good start, especially on street tires. I don't know thing one about Mustang suspensions, so I'll let those experts explain how the caster effect camber under load. I'd leave it alone until you get some expert, track-specific advice on that. In general, more positive caster (or is that negative caster? Hell, I can never remember which is which) will give you more negative camber under load and turning. You mention OT... I assume you mean open track. Are you getting instruction at these events? If not, you're doing yourself a great disservice. Leave the car neutral, get a veteran driver in the passenger seat, and work on the software behind the wheel. ![]()
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