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Old 04-03-2006, 07:44 PM   #16
RedfireSVT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 cobra toy
I guess my car is a factory freak.... My car was clocked at 169 mph @ The Texas Mile. I have run my car at least fifteen times with some runs back to back. No problems here

It's all in the tune!

Stock engine
355 gear
2.93 upper
466 rwhp/rwtq (sae)


169 mph was in 5th gear 6K rpm

http://www.texasmile.com/October2004OfficialResults.asp
No one ever said the car can't do it, just that you shouldn't do it. Every car is different and some last longer than others. But with that kind of abuse sooner or later it will let go.
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:06 PM   #17
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its most likley this, the stock cobra is probably safe or maybe with a pulley, and 3:55 gears, but soon as we start cranking on DA BOOST as well as other stuff, I bet we gain more for the short run and lessen the engines ability to take the long hard run
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:59 PM   #18
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so how fast were you going when it started detonating. If you wanted a top speed car maybe you should look else where.
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:35 PM   #19
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Any supercharger or forced induction application causes lot's of heat when running them hard for a long period of time. The cooling setup on the 03-04 cobra's don't hold up to the heat they create.
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Old 04-03-2006, 11:29 PM   #20
Dave B.
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so I come back to the question of the water/meth injection system?
would that water/meth not cool the charge down enough to stop it?
would it not cool the heck out of the air?
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03 Cobra 10th Anniversary Red
Stiegermeier Stage 4 ported Eaton
511.9 RWHP 467.7 RWTQ
2,76 Billetflow SC pulley
Billetflow Aux-idler
all billetflow idler pulleys
Accufab single blade
MAC cold air
BBK Ceramic LT headers
X-pipe
Magnaflow exhaust
Gordsford heat exchanger
PST Carbon fiber drive shaft
lowered 1.5 inches
18 X 9's AFS running Toyos 275/35/18's front
18 X 10.5's AFS running Toyos 295/35/18's rear
Cobra "R" rear wing
Cobra "R" hood
4:10 gears
Pedator tuned
Pro short shifter
Hurst "T" handle
Promotion Clutch Quad
AEM widband gauge
Boost & fuel Press gauges
drilled & slotted rotors
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:06 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave B.
so I come back to the question of the water/meth injection system?
would that water/meth not cool the charge down enough to stop it?
would it not cool the heck out of the air?
Rob is right on the money...

David (03 Cobra Toy) is going to kill me for draggin him more into this. But he tackled the cooling issues of the 03's way back when he first got it, when most people weren't worried even looking into it, and wondering why their motors were letting go. And he has been improving upon it ever since. He not only does the Texas Mile runs @ 169 mph, but his car has seen many many many Open track events with long run sessions, and in the Texas heat. Texas world speedway has a 145mph-160mph front straight. He has approached his setup knowledgably.

Boils down to this. Its first and foremost in the tune. If you got the tune right (As big as Houston is, with as many shops, there would only be two shops I would let tune my car) , after modding past a moderate point, heat comes into play, and you must tackle cooling issues, engine, as well as air charge. At that point the piston to wall clearance will trump you. If you are serious about getting a top end runner, look into a rebuild down the road, with better pistons and correct wall clearance, and it will open up the cars potentials greatly. Rebuilding a mod motor is not as big an ordeal as some people make it out to be as long as you have a trustworthy shop.
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:27 AM   #22
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I understand that, for sure, but my wide band goes at its leanest to about 11.3 it starts a little leaner than that before about 4 Lbs boost then it richens up, but before Sam tuned it I was running real real rich and I still could get knocking under those high speed pull conditions, so when Sam told me that even if he made it as righ as 9.1 A/F it would still knock under the long hard pull, so the only thing I can think of for a short term is to cool the pressurized air, thus possibly a water/meth kit,,,when water s sprayed in Atomized form it evaporates like right now, and releases coolness, this should help, the other thing im worried about is im supposed to get a lower,pumps,and new tune done soon but thats going to make even more heat is it not? how the heck do you guys with 16 Lbs boost with ported Eatons, keeping from detonation?
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03 Cobra 10th Anniversary Red
Stiegermeier Stage 4 ported Eaton
511.9 RWHP 467.7 RWTQ
2,76 Billetflow SC pulley
Billetflow Aux-idler
all billetflow idler pulleys
Accufab single blade
MAC cold air
BBK Ceramic LT headers
X-pipe
Magnaflow exhaust
Gordsford heat exchanger
PST Carbon fiber drive shaft
lowered 1.5 inches
18 X 9's AFS running Toyos 275/35/18's front
18 X 10.5's AFS running Toyos 295/35/18's rear
Cobra "R" rear wing
Cobra "R" hood
4:10 gears
Pedator tuned
Pro short shifter
Hurst "T" handle
Promotion Clutch Quad
AEM widband gauge
Boost & fuel Press gauges
drilled & slotted rotors
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Old 04-04-2006, 08:17 AM   #23
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If you want to run that much boost buy a Whipple.
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Old 04-04-2006, 08:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave B.
so I come back to the question of the water/meth injection system?
would that water/meth not cool the charge down enough to stop it?
would it not cool the heck out of the air?
When water/meth injection works, it works...problem we found is that we couldnt get it to be consistent...only thing we've found to work so far is the h/e, radiator and external water pump with an ice mix...not saying there arent other options (evans, ldc, etc)
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:28 PM   #25
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Man I was already to buy a Whipple but was talked out of it because unless I was going to run 20 Lbs of boost change fuel lines and whole nine yards, a ported Eaton would do about as well, DAM I wish there was some consistancy on this board
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03 Cobra 10th Anniversary Red
Stiegermeier Stage 4 ported Eaton
511.9 RWHP 467.7 RWTQ
2,76 Billetflow SC pulley
Billetflow Aux-idler
all billetflow idler pulleys
Accufab single blade
MAC cold air
BBK Ceramic LT headers
X-pipe
Magnaflow exhaust
Gordsford heat exchanger
PST Carbon fiber drive shaft
lowered 1.5 inches
18 X 9's AFS running Toyos 275/35/18's front
18 X 10.5's AFS running Toyos 295/35/18's rear
Cobra "R" rear wing
Cobra "R" hood
4:10 gears
Pedator tuned
Pro short shifter
Hurst "T" handle
Promotion Clutch Quad
AEM widband gauge
Boost & fuel Press gauges
drilled & slotted rotors
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:59 PM   #26
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...Whipples Rock...
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Old 04-04-2006, 03:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave B.
Man I was already to buy a Whipple but was talked out of it because unless I was going to run 20 Lbs of boost change fuel lines and whole nine yards, a ported Eaton would do about as well, DAM I wish there was some consistancy on this board
a ported Eaton is good for saving money, getting good numbers, and improving 1/4 goals. Did you specify you wanted to do high end runs and bring down the air temp, because that would definitely sway the whipple more than the eaton, even at low boost. It can be frustrating as there is a lot of trial and error and a matter of what questions are asked.
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:10 PM   #28
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[QUOTE=Dave B.]Man I was already to buy a Whipple but was talked out of it because unless I was going to run 20 Lbs of boost change fuel lines and whole nine yards, a ported Eaton would do about as well, DAM I wish there was some consistancy on this board[/Q


That's just not true. A Whipple needs only the same supporting mods as a ported "Heaton", is way more efficient at any level of boost, runs cooler and will smack a ported blower upside the head! Ported blowers make nice dyno numbers but suffer from heat soak. A Whipple is far superior just more expensive.
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:20 PM   #29
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Granted I do not own a 2003 or 2004 Cobra just my little ole 2001. It does however put out 17psi of boost from a Vortech T-trim. The combination that I found has worked best for my setup is an aftercooler and the Snow Boost Cooler, even on hot days after repeated high speed runs my intake temps are less than 100*. With this setup I have NEVER had detonation. If it was my car I would upgrade the intercooler and get the Snow Boost Cooling system. BE SAFE NOT SORRY!







PS this is my third engine, I do know what I'm talking about NOW!
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Daddy
PS this is my third engine, I do know what I'm talking about NOW!
Gregg, did you go with a whole new block on the rebuilds (after the first rebuild, assuming you did not hurt the block and that you maxed the .020 over on the first rebuild)? or have you gotten the stock block re-sleaved?
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