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Old 04-10-2006, 11:41 PM   #1
Levi
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Gauges

Looking at Autometer Phantons mechanical 2 1/16" gauges.
Thinking Phanton due to good looking for a good price.
All other are $$$$$$$.

Three of them to fill in the new gauge plate in the dash bezel under the climate controls with white face.

What do you thinks good for my 98 N/A?

What Water Temp. range?
120-240 or 140-280 F

What Oil Pressure range?
0-100 or 0-150 PSI

Oil Temp. I think the only one around is,
140-280 F

I think it's going to look sweet with the original white face gauge cluster, white face climate control backing and under that white face gauges.
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Old 04-11-2006, 12:16 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Levi
Three of them to fill in the new gauge plate in the dash bezel under the climate controls with white face.

I think it's going to look sweet with the original white face gauge cluster, white face climate control backing and under that white face gauges.
Guess you have all that SPACE w/o the cassette deck and CD deck.

Not sure on what you're talking about with the white faced gauge cluster and backing deal. I'd say get a black backing plate for the gauges to go with the other black interior.
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Old 04-11-2006, 06:30 AM   #3
Andy M
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Stan,

I would most definitely go with mechanicals whenever possible. I have the 2-1/16" Phantoms in my car. White face, black bezel, red dial. They look great and are very functional.

I would go with the following:

oil temp - get one which reaches a limit of 280 or more if possible.
oil pressure - I think mine is 0-60 pounds ??
water temp - up to 240

my car is not at home right now, but I will check this asap and let you know.

These three are the most important ones!!

I would also get a warning light for the dash (in your field of vision) for both low oil pressure AND high water temp!! I have a red LED for the oil pressure one and a bright blue one for high water temp. This lets have a visual while on track in case you are not watching your gauges and something bad happens (like a broken oil pump!!!! ). It will alert you in time to shut it down before real damage happens.

David is the best source for deciding what to install on this. I assume you will get him to install this stuff for you, right?....
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:23 AM   #4
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Where are you guys mounting these mechanical water temp senders???

When I ran mech. gauges in my old drag truck the sender bulb was enourmous!!!

It prevented me from mounting it the way I wanted.
I had to stack up a series of pipe adapters which pulled the sender out of the coolant flow.

Are you drilling and tapping???

I always loved the mechanical gauges but felt it to be too much of a pain this time around.

Plus the capilary tubing does not do well in a tight bend situation dictated by my choice of a pillar mount.
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmysidecarr
Where are you guys mounting these mechanical water temp senders???

When I ran mech. gauges in my old drag truck the sender bulb was enourmous!!!

It prevented me from mounting it the way I wanted.
I had to stack up a series of pipe adapters which pulled the sender out of the coolant flow.

Are you drilling and tapping???

I always loved the mechanical gauges but felt it to be too much of a pain this time around.

Plus the capilary tubing does not do well in a tight bend situation dictated by my choice of a pillar mount.
Mechanical gauges are a pain in the ass to install It cost some $$$ to run that tube....

No drill or tapping

Coolant temp in the crossover pipe
http://www.prodata-net.com/2003Cobra...empAdapter.htm

Oil temp in the oil pan (Canton has a bung hole)

Oil pressure at the factory switch
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Old 04-11-2006, 10:39 AM   #6
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That's a really nice solution!!!

I also went electric since I wanted a left bank temp sender... due to our Terminator tight pistons issues.

I knew the other two were no big deal especially the oil temp. The pan bung is nice!
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Old 04-11-2006, 10:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 cobra toy
(Canton has a bung hole)
in my best Bevis & Butthead voice....."you said BUNG hole....hehehehehehehe"
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Old 04-11-2006, 02:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97CasperCobra
Guess you have all that SPACE w/o the cassette deck and CD deck.

Not sure on what you're talking about with the white faced gauge cluster and backing deal. I'd say get a black backing plate for the gauges to go with the other black interior.

The stock speedo, tach. and other gauges. gauges are white face.

and I replace the climate controls black indicator plate with a white face.

All this will look the same if I use the gauges with white face, black bezel, red dial.

With me now.
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Old 04-11-2006, 02:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy M
Stan,

I would most definitely go with mechanicals whenever possible. I have the 2-1/16" Phantoms in my car. White face, black bezel, red dial. They look great and are very functional.

I would go with the following:

oil temp - get one which reaches a limit of 280 or more if possible.
oil pressure - I think mine is 0-60 pounds ??
water temp - up to 240

my car is not at home right now, but I will check this asap and let you know.

These three are the most important ones!!

I would also get a warning light for the dash (in your field of vision) for both low oil pressure AND high water temp!! I have a red LED for the oil pressure one and a bright blue one for high water temp. This lets have a visual while on track in case you are not watching your gauges and something bad happens (like a broken oil pump!!!! ). It will alert you in time to shut it down before real damage happens.

David is the best source for deciding what to install on this. I assume you will get him to install this stuff for you, right?....

Andy, Thanks for the temp ranges, I just did not know where to start.

Good idea about the warning lights, Sweeet.....
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Old 04-11-2006, 02:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmysidecarr
Where are you guys mounting these mechanical water temp senders???

When I ran mech. gauges in my old drag truck the sender bulb was enourmous!!!

It prevented me from mounting it the way I wanted.
I had to stack up a series of pipe adapters which pulled the sender out of the coolant flow.

Are you drilling and tapping???

I always loved the mechanical gauges but felt it to be too much of a pain this time around.

Plus the capilary tubing does not do well in a tight bend situation dictated by my choice of a pillar mount.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 cobra toy
Mechanical gauges are a pain in the ass to install It cost some $$$ to run that tube....

No drill or tapping

Coolant temp in the crossover pipe
http://www.prodata-net.com/2003Cobra...empAdapter.htm

Oil temp in the oil pan (Canton has a bung hole)

Oil pressure at the factory switch
I just want something that gives me a better reading then the stock gauges and with out alot of work to get the job done.
So y'all are saying electical is good enough for what I need and easy to install.

Right nothing is easy...............

Say I get electric.
Other than the gauges, what other parts are needed?
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Old 04-11-2006, 03:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Levi
I just want something that gives me a better reading then the stock gauges and with out alot of work to get the job done.
So y'all are saying electical is good enough for what I need and easy to install.

Right nothing is easy...............

Say I get electric.
Other than the gauges, what other parts are needed?
I would and did go with electric gauges.

The key to making the gauges accurate is running an additional ground wire to the sending unit.

Just that coolant plug (see above post) No other parts needed...senders are in the gauge kit.
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Old 04-11-2006, 03:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 cobra toy
I would and did go with electric gauges.

The key to making the gauges accurate is running an additional ground wire to the sending unit.

Just that coolant plug (see above post) No other parts needed...senders are in the gauge kit.


Now I remember you said that before............................

Sweeeeeeeeeeet, Thanks big D.
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Old 04-13-2006, 02:00 PM   #13
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Stan I would make one exception on the guages and go with the water temp above 240. You may never need it but from experience my car runs 220 to 240 depending on how hard I push it and for how long. Being your car is not S/C you may lelect not to go this way, however seeing that we do a lot of track events above 240 may not be a bad thing. My oil pressure runs around 60-80 on the track. Cant wait to see them installed,
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Old 04-13-2006, 03:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl G
Stan I would make one exception on the guages and go with the water temp above 240. You may never need it but from experience my car runs 220 to 240 depending on how hard I push it and for how long. Being your car is not S/C you may lelect not to go this way, however seeing that we do a lot of track events above 240 may not be a bad thing. My oil pressure runs around 60-80 on the track. Cant wait to see them installed,
Thanks Carl.
Just waiting on my tax return, then I can get the gauges.
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Old 05-06-2006, 12:11 PM   #15
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Got the gauges, nothing better to do on a rain day and so I am starting the installs.

Any other last minute advice you can give to this goof ball?


Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 cobra toy
I would and did go with electric gauges.
The key to making the gauges accurate is running an additional ground wire to the sending unit.
Just that coolant plug (see above post) No other parts needed...senders are in the gauge kit.
Just checking to make sure I understand completely.
I know it's out of reach, for me.


I am not sure what you mean when you say additional ground wire to the sending units!
Is that a separate gounds for/from to each gauge?

I think the lighting needs to only come on when the lights are on
and I think I under stand the power leads can be a 12v key on only connection.
Can all the power on leads be on/into the one/same power connection?

I am just trying to do it right the first time and I know what y'all are thinking, so I will say it for you.
I'm a .
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