Very frustrating Alternator problem

venomous · 07-07-2007, 10:55 PM

Well my stock alternator took a dump. So off to advance i go and buy a rebuilt Palladium alternator along with a brand new optima red top. I swapped ALT. pulleys since the pulley that came with the other alternators were larger and I was afraid (since I have boost) I would change my tune. After installing, I realize that my battery gauge was still really low. So I drive back to advance and turns out that I burnt up the alternator and killed the optima battery. So they get me new of each and prob 30 mins later the new alternator fried again. So now I have a brand new powermaster (chrome) on the way. So why do I keep frying the alternators? I really need to get this figured out before I put in the powermaster. Thanks and God Bless. Andrew

cablernc · 07-10-2007, 03:05 PM

I've heard of this problem and if I recall it has something to do with the pulleys?

venomous · 07-11-2007, 12:47 PM

Well, its at the dealership right now. They told me that they think its the 3 wire plug that goes into the back of the alternator. They also said that they though it was the alternator? I have went through 3 alternators so I know it can't be the new one. It was even tested before going on the car. We'll find out today though...hopefully.

Aaron94 · 07-12-2007, 02:04 PM

Where was the gauge reading?

Mine will read nice and high when I first start the car, and pretty much straight up when cruising, but when idling it reads way down by the N or O in normal. I have underdrive pullies, so I attribute it to that. What amperage is your powermaster that you have on the way? I am thinking the fix might be a heavy duty alternator, 210 amps... I hardly ever drive my cobra anymore though, so I have not gotten around to buying a new alternator to test it, let alone justify the expense...

Keep us posted on the issue...........

InfamousSVT · 07-12-2007, 03:13 PM

Had the same problem once before, did you check all your fuses? You may have blown a fuse and that's what is causing the alternator to get fried.

Let us know how it works out.

venomous · 07-12-2007, 09:14 PM

I broke down and took my car to the dealership. It took 3.5 straight hours for them to figure out the problem. It turned out to be the 3 wire plug that plugged into the back of the alternator. It had become corroded and what not. Also, they said that I had a bad ground. So they replaced the plug and relocated the ground. Problem fixed. total cost -1 hour labor (I have a friend

) $176.56

swhiteh3 · 07-13-2007, 11:27 AM

This was a VERY common problem on Fox-body cars. The wires were undersized to start with, and cars that had lots of current draw (large stereos, etc) were even more prone to the problem. Keep a close eye on that connector, and keep it clean.

07-07-2007, 10:55 PM	#1
venomous Polk County Redneck Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Polk County, NC Posts: 557	Very frustrating Alternator problem Well my stock alternator took a dump. So off to advance i go and buy a rebuilt Palladium alternator along with a brand new optima red top. I swapped ALT. pulleys since the pulley that came with the other alternators were larger and I was afraid (since I have boost) I would change my tune. After installing, I realize that my battery gauge was still really low. So I drive back to advance and turns out that I burnt up the alternator and killed the optima battery. So they get me new of each and prob 30 mins later the new alternator fried again. So now I have a brand new powermaster (chrome) on the way. So why do I keep frying the alternators? I really need to get this figured out before I put in the powermaster. Thanks and God Bless. Andrew __________________ ~1995 "Rio Red" Cobra #3379 of 4005 2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ

07-10-2007, 03:05 PM	#2
cablernc Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 75	I've heard of this problem and if I recall it has something to do with the pulleys? __________________ 2007 Shelby GT-500 Black Convertible 2000 Cobra R #102 of 300 1965 Shelby 427 Roadster 2007 Shelby GT # 0663 1970 Grabber Orange Boss 302 2007 Saleen Parnelli Jones 302 edition # 88/500

07-11-2007, 12:47 PM	#3
venomous Polk County Redneck Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Polk County, NC Posts: 557	Well, its at the dealership right now. They told me that they think its the 3 wire plug that goes into the back of the alternator. They also said that they though it was the alternator? I have went through 3 alternators so I know it can't be the new one. It was even tested before going on the car. We'll find out today though...hopefully. __________________ ~1995 "Rio Red" Cobra #3379 of 4005 2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ

07-12-2007, 02:04 PM	#4
Aaron94 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 308	Where was the gauge reading? Mine will read nice and high when I first start the car, and pretty much straight up when cruising, but when idling it reads way down by the N or O in normal. I have underdrive pullies, so I attribute it to that. What amperage is your powermaster that you have on the way? I am thinking the fix might be a heavy duty alternator, 210 amps... I hardly ever drive my cobra anymore though, so I have not gotten around to buying a new alternator to test it, let alone justify the expense... Keep us posted on the issue........... __________________ 1994 Rio Red Coupe #3564 304 ci, GT40X Aluminum Heads, Extrude Honed and Polished intake, Motorsport F303 cam, vortech fuel rails, 77 mm Pro-M mass air, 70mm BBK T-Body, Smog pump deletion, MSD and Perfomance distributors ignition components, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-axe, King Cobra/Centerforce clutch, Custom 3" Alum Driveshaft, 3.55 Gears, Griggs rear suspension w/torque arm & pan hard bar, Koni Red Shocks/Struts

07-12-2007, 03:13 PM	#5
InfamousSVT Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Gastonia, NC Posts: 1,960	Had the same problem once before, did you check all your fuses? You may have blown a fuse and that's what is causing the alternator to get fried. Let us know how it works out. __________________ 1994 Black on Black SVT Coupe 2004 SVT Cobra Competition Orange - SOLD 1979 Ghia Coupe - SOLD 1994 Chevy S-10 - DailyDriver

07-12-2007, 09:14 PM	#6
venomous Polk County Redneck Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Polk County, NC Posts: 557	I broke down and took my car to the dealership. It took 3.5 straight hours for them to figure out the problem. It turned out to be the 3 wire plug that plugged into the back of the alternator. It had become corroded and what not. Also, they said that I had a bad ground. So they replaced the plug and relocated the ground. Problem fixed. total cost -1 hour labor (I have a friend ) $176.56 __________________ ~1995 "Rio Red" Cobra #3379 of 4005 2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ

07-13-2007, 11:27 AM	#7
swhiteh3 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Detroit, MI Posts: 11	This was a VERY common problem on Fox-body cars. The wires were undersized to start with, and cars that had lots of current draw (large stereos, etc) were even more prone to the problem. Keep a close eye on that connector, and keep it clean.

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