Wheel Hop

Cobra D · 01-19-2008, 04:32 PM

Greetings to the snake pit. I am new to this forum so will probably screw up a lot of protocols, but I love my GT 500 and need to find others like me.

My first issue is wheel hop. I have not heard much talk about wheel hop being an issue, but my car has a serious problem with it. Unless I'm cranking up the smoke factory sideways, all I get on low-to-no friction launches is bone-shattering wheel hop. It could be wet road, dry road, you name it; if it is a straight-line launch, I'm chipping tooth enamel.

I've had the car in to my local dealership, Evergreen Ford in Issaquah, WA (with phenomenal customer service if you own a Cobra or Roush car), for this issue and they inspected everything and gave the whole rearend a clean bill of health.

Anyone else have this problem?

Just FYI: I also have an odd rubbing noise coming from the rearend on low speed cornering (parking lot speeds). A service bulletin recently came out about Cobra differentials needing more diff lube additive for the limited slip gearing. Cleared the issue right up.

I know there are some Roush goodies, such as a "wheel-hop eliminator" and beefier aluminum rear lower control arms, but I would rather fix the issue through engineering than through bolt-ons, if at all possible.

Anyone have any advice on this issue?

Cobra D
2007 Shelby GT500

**cobrabitn** · 01-19-2008, 05:08 PM

I have never heard of a straight axle car having "wheel hop" issues. That is mostly for cars with IRS. I've had good luck with lowering the car or changing spring rates to help assist in wheel hop issues.

Welcome to the forums!

tazzracing1 · 01-19-2008, 06:08 PM

Welocme to the forums great to have you here.

Angel · 01-23-2008, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tazzracing1

Welocme to the forums great to have you here.

Welcome and congrats on the GT500.

Wheel Hop? Mine has it bad as well.

Upon installation of exhaust, CAI and a Tune, thereby creating more of a number difference between the HP and the TQ (especially in the low end) it helped reduce it. I been told only way to eliminate it is LCAs and the Roush kit. The stamped out ones from the Factory just don't cut it against the TQ of these cars.

At first instance, I thought the problem was due to something else. Since, how can a live rear axle, limited slip car, do this? TQ is the reason and a lot of it in the low end of the power band.

Stickier tires help a bit, but unless the structure is corrected to channel that extra Tq through the car and to the ground, hooking up too good might just break what is the weakest link.

1268 · 01-28-2008, 01:05 PM

It's a widely know condition talked about on other sites....you need to replace the upper and lower control arms...may need relocation brackets.

snakbitn · 01-29-2008, 09:17 PM

upper & lower control arms fixed mine and made it hookup alot better with over600 rwhp.

Cobra D · 02-06-2008, 01:05 AM

Sorry for the delay. Wanted to thank everyone for their input. I had explored the idea that the control arms were an aspect of resolving wheel hop issues, but wanted to run it by the REAL pros: the men and women that drive them everyday. Still new to this whole thing and appreciate your advice.

Also, wanted to let you know about 3 or 4 weeks ago a blue-on-white '08 left the lot for $75,000. Gotta love Seattle.

5.4 Shelby · 02-06-2008, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra D

Sorry for the delay. Wanted to thank everyone for their input. I had explored the idea that the control arms were an aspect of resolving wheel hop issues, but wanted to run it by the REAL pros: the men and women that drive them everyday. Still new to this whole thing and appreciate your advice.

Also, wanted to let you know about 3 or 4 weeks ago a blue-on-white '08 left the lot for $75,000. Gotta love Seattle.

Apparently that was to someone without an internet connection.

asperformance · 03-11-2008, 10:25 AM

Just replace the stock springs, My First 500 had this issue, but my new one doesn't at all, I think it is because of the Shaker 1000 Box, I dropped it in the rear as well, It has no wheel hop issue at all with stock control arms.

Rosco P · 03-12-2008, 11:13 AM

My wheel hop got worse with every power adder I put on it. Lower Control Arms with relocation brackets from Steeda, and the adjustable UCA will wipe it completely out. While you're at it, replace your springs and panhard rod with the steeda stuff so it will handle like something other than pontoon boat. Best money I have spent on mine and you will not be disappointed.

With respect, I doubt the addition of a 60 pound set of speakers in the trunk has affected your wheel hop. I have the shaker 1000 (waste of cash) and as I said, my wheel hop was unbearable. It took all the fun out of the car for me.

Also, the Roush kit will work but it is by no means the only way to fix it.

If you are in doubt, let evolution performance send you this kit and have it professionally installed at your Ford dealer or an established race shop. The best thing about it is that you will not have to question if its the right thing for your car as their GT500 products are as good as they get.

http://www.evoperform.com/shop/index...products_id=50

All of the necessary parts for the correct and safe modification of your suspension are included. The price is reasonable as well, especially when considering the cost of Ford Racing's suspension pack which doesn't even have all the components. You will wonder why it wasn't built like this in the first place.

There are a couple other more expensive options, Watts links ect., but if you aren't serious about your road course track days you'll be best served by the evo kit.

Angel · 03-18-2008, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rosco P

My wheel hop got worse with every power adder I put on it. Lower Control Arms with relocation brackets from Steeda, and the adjustable UCA will wipe it completely out. While you're at it, replace your springs and panhard rod with the steeda stuff so it will handle like something other than pontoon boat. Best money I have spent on mine and you will not be disappointed.

With respect, I doubt the addition of a 60 pound set of speakers in the trunk has affected your wheel hop. I have the shaker 1000 (waste of cash) and as I said, my wheel hop was unbearable. It took all the fun out of the car for me.

Also, the Roush kit will work but it is by no means the only way to fix it.

If you are in doubt, let evolution performance send you this kit and have it professionally installed at your Ford dealer or an established race shop. The best thing about it is that you will not have to question if its the right thing for your car as their GT500 products are as good as they get.

http://www.evoperform.com/shop/index...products_id=50

All of the necessary parts for the correct and safe modification of your suspension are included. The price is reasonable as well, especially when considering the cost of Ford Racing's suspension pack which doesn't even have all the components. You will wonder why it wasn't built like this in the first place.

There are a couple other more expensive options, Watts links ect., but if you aren't serious about your road course track days you'll be best served by the evo kit.

I've been considering the EVO Kit v.s. the Ford Racing one, and it is evident to me, the FRs is not as complete. In driving the 427R v.s. the Shelby, I can clearly see how better Wt Distribution and Suspension makes 445 hp much more useful / effective than 600. My confidence level is much higher in the R than in the GT500.

Rosco P · 03-20-2008, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angel

I've been considering the EVO Kit v.s. the Ford Racing one, and it is evident to me, the FRs is not as complete. In driving the 427R v.s. the Shelby, I can clearly see how better Wt Distribution and Suspension makes 445 hp much more useful / effective than 600. My confidence level is much higher in the R than in the GT500.

The evo kit is the way to go. You can use your horses and take care of Roush cars all day then

JROC · 03-25-2008, 01:40 AM

Sticky tires/Drag Radials are the simpliest way to get ride of wheel hop. Another side affect of them is their about 50x funner than pure street tires.

I recommend Nitto 555R's. They are not bad in rain if you pay attention, they last a good 7,000-10,000 miles and they handle decently. IMO their the best rear tire to hook up a high HP RWD street car. Their not as sticky as a M/T or BFG DR's, but those are much more of a pure track tire whereas the Nitto is designed more to be a sticky street tire.

Nitto's run a little undersized. a 305/35/18 Nitto 555R will fit a GT500's 18x9.5 wheel great.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/pag...ag-radial.html

asperformance · 04-08-2008, 09:40 AM

Like I said in my above post, My first 500 would beat you to death with wheel hop, However my 2nd has none at all, Only difference is the Mach 100o box, I agree not worth the money as it doesn't sound any better than the Wife's shelby gt, Maybe ford re-designed the Bushings in the later 07's my car I have now is #6969,. Yes 6969, How cool is that, So maybe 60lbs of weight does help, the only suspension mod I have is spings and DR's at the track, but no wheel hop on the street with street tires.

Rosco P · 04-11-2008, 09:20 AM

To the last 2 folks that posted...

No

and

No ( you have springs and you still think the speakers are helping?)

You have to spin the tires for there to be wheel hop. Sticky tires are a band-aid at best, but if they spin, you get wheel hop with a stock suspension. That's not fixing anything.

Suspension mods are the only way to FIX the problem.

Speakers lol.... Mine has the speakers and it would shake your teeth loose before I fixed it.

01-19-2008, 04:32 PM	#1
Cobra D Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Issaquah, Washington Posts: 2	Wheel Hop Greetings to the snake pit. I am new to this forum so will probably screw up a lot of protocols, but I love my GT 500 and need to find others like me. My first issue is wheel hop. I have not heard much talk about wheel hop being an issue, but my car has a serious problem with it. Unless I'm cranking up the smoke factory sideways, all I get on low-to-no friction launches is bone-shattering wheel hop. It could be wet road, dry road, you name it; if it is a straight-line launch, I'm chipping tooth enamel. I've had the car in to my local dealership, Evergreen Ford in Issaquah, WA (with phenomenal customer service if you own a Cobra or Roush car), for this issue and they inspected everything and gave the whole rearend a clean bill of health. Anyone else have this problem? Just FYI: I also have an odd rubbing noise coming from the rearend on low speed cornering (parking lot speeds). A service bulletin recently came out about Cobra differentials needing more diff lube additive for the limited slip gearing. Cleared the issue right up. I know there are some Roush goodies, such as a "wheel-hop eliminator" and beefier aluminum rear lower control arms, but I would rather fix the issue through engineering than through bolt-ons, if at all possible. Anyone have any advice on this issue? Cobra D 2007 Shelby GT500

01-19-2008, 05:08 PM	#2
cobrabitn Dr Jekyll on the street, Mr Hyde on the track Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Rock Hill SC Posts: 14,649	I have never heard of a straight axle car having "wheel hop" issues. That is mostly for cars with IRS. I've had good luck with lowering the car or changing spring rates to help assist in wheel hop issues. Welcome to the forums! __________________ Cobrabitn 2016 Ruby Red Metallic with Caribou accent F-350 Crew Cab Stump Puller! 6.7 Diesel Automatic with Chrome Package, Off Road Package, 3.55 Locking axles, and Ultimate Lariat Interior Trim Package! 2017 Shelby GT350 Coupe - track car! Mods: JLT True Cold Air oil catch can 2009 Vista Blue Shelby GT 500 Coupe - Garage Queen Tinted Windows JLT True Cold Air Kit Pro-Dyno Tune 526 rwhp - 511 rwtq 1994 Rio Red Indy Pace Car #22 "Runabout" Snake in the grill MGW shift knob 1996 SVT Cobra Wheels 1969 New Lime Mustang Mach 1 Sportsroof - Second owner - bone stock with shaker. One SVT Cobra, one Shelby GT500, one 69 mach 1, and a Shelby GT350 is better than nothing! Custom Data Plates for your Mustang or Ford! Buy "Cool Merchandise" at Data Plates Plus www.dataplatesplus.com See my MSR Video here!

01-19-2008, 06:08 PM	#3
tazzracing1 SCMC Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Paw Paw, michigan Posts: 904	Welocme to the forums great to have you here. __________________ 2003 S/C Cobra(born 6/10/2002 #439 of 8394) 2.93 pulley/Cold air intake X-pipe with cats/Magnaflowcatback Strut tower bar and subframe connectors MGW shifter second to none/best of the best Billetflow pullies with snub pulley 1997 Cobra(retired) www.michiganmustang.com

03-11-2008, 10:25 AM	#9
asperformance Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 16	Wheel hop Just replace the stock springs, My First 500 had this issue, but my new one doesn't at all, I think it is because of the Shaker 1000 Box, I dropped it in the rear as well, It has no wheel hop issue at all with stock control arms.

03-25-2008, 01:40 AM	#13
JROC Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Gaston, SC Posts: 172	Sticky tires/Drag Radials are the simpliest way to get ride of wheel hop. Another side affect of them is their about 50x funner than pure street tires. I recommend Nitto 555R's. They are not bad in rain if you pay attention, they last a good 7,000-10,000 miles and they handle decently. IMO their the best rear tire to hook up a high HP RWD street car. Their not as sticky as a M/T or BFG DR's, but those are much more of a pure track tire whereas the Nitto is designed more to be a sticky street tire. Nitto's run a little undersized. a 305/35/18 Nitto 555R will fit a GT500's 18x9.5 wheel great. http://www.lethalperformance.com/pag...ag-radial.html __________________ *Born: 9/2/02* # 2512 of 8394 Mods: Magnaflow Catback, MAC Prochamber, Steeda Tri-Ax, K&N FIPK, 2.93" upper pulley, MM FLSFC, MM K-Member Brace, MM Coilovers, ac427cobra's Complete IRS Bushings, Billetflow IRS Brace, 18x9 Front, 18x10.5 Rear AFS factory replicas, McLeod RST TD Clutch, Ram Billet Aluminum Flywheel, LFP DP H/E, ETC. :rockon:

01-28-2008, 01:05 PM	#5
1268 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: PA Posts: 2	It's a widely know condition talked about on other sites....you need to replace the upper and lower control arms...may need relocation brackets.

01-29-2008, 09:17 PM	#6
snakbitn SCMC Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: monroe, n.c. Posts: 196	upper & lower control arms fixed mine and made it hookup alot better with over600 rwhp.

02-06-2008, 01:05 AM	#7
Cobra D Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Issaquah, Washington Posts: 2	Sorry for the delay. Wanted to thank everyone for their input. I had explored the idea that the control arms were an aspect of resolving wheel hop issues, but wanted to run it by the REAL pros: the men and women that drive them everyday. Still new to this whole thing and appreciate your advice. Also, wanted to let you know about 3 or 4 weeks ago a blue-on-white '08 left the lot for $75,000. Gotta love Seattle.

03-12-2008, 11:13 AM	#10
Rosco P Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 12	My wheel hop got worse with every power adder I put on it. Lower Control Arms with relocation brackets from Steeda, and the adjustable UCA will wipe it completely out. While you're at it, replace your springs and panhard rod with the steeda stuff so it will handle like something other than pontoon boat. Best money I have spent on mine and you will not be disappointed. With respect, I doubt the addition of a 60 pound set of speakers in the trunk has affected your wheel hop. I have the shaker 1000 (waste of cash) and as I said, my wheel hop was unbearable. It took all the fun out of the car for me. Also, the Roush kit will work but it is by no means the only way to fix it. If you are in doubt, let evolution performance send you this kit and have it professionally installed at your Ford dealer or an established race shop. The best thing about it is that you will not have to question if its the right thing for your car as their GT500 products are as good as they get. http://www.evoperform.com/shop/index...products_id=50 All of the necessary parts for the correct and safe modification of your suspension are included. The price is reasonable as well, especially when considering the cost of Ford Racing's suspension pack which doesn't even have all the components. You will wonder why it wasn't built like this in the first place. There are a couple other more expensive options, Watts links ect., but if you aren't serious about your road course track days you'll be best served by the evo kit.

04-08-2008, 09:40 AM	#14
asperformance Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 16	wheel hop Like I said in my above post, My first 500 would beat you to death with wheel hop, However my 2nd has none at all, Only difference is the Mach 100o box, I agree not worth the money as it doesn't sound any better than the Wife's shelby gt, Maybe ford re-designed the Bushings in the later 07's my car I have now is #6969,. Yes 6969, How cool is that, So maybe 60lbs of weight does help, the only suspension mod I have is spings and DR's at the track, but no wheel hop on the street with street tires.

04-11-2008, 09:20 AM	#15
Rosco P Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 12	To the last 2 folks that posted... No and No ( you have springs and you still think the speakers are helping?) You have to spin the tires for there to be wheel hop. Sticky tires are a band-aid at best, but if they spin, you get wheel hop with a stock suspension. That's not fixing anything. Suspension mods are the only way to FIX the problem. Speakers lol.... Mine has the speakers and it would shake your teeth loose before I fixed it.

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