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Old 03-22-2008, 10:07 AM   #1
98BlueSVT
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Well hello all I picked up my 98SVT thursday and have been toying around with it, the car already has SLP catback exhaust and 4.10's and a few other minor things, ill post pics when i can. I bought the car with a CEL but the codes were 02 sensors so i figured it was due to the exhaust. I love the car and it will be see alot of mods in the near future but im just curious if anyone know where i can get a 02sim for my car so that i can get rid of the CEL if the exhaust is whats causing it....any help will be appreciated

NOTE: after climbing around the car i noticed the 2 rear 02 sensors are gone and the plugs are just zip tied away so i am assumeing thats whats throwing the codes listed below. But any help will be appreciated. Also im looking into what mods are best bang for the buck and the best place to get parts. And another thing anyone know how much a dealer charges to fix the speedo from the gears?

P1151 - Lack of 02 switches Bank 2 sensor 1
P0161 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0156 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0136 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0155 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0141 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2

The car isnt clean yet im stuck at work all weekend so yea Thank you all in advance.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...6MT/stang1.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...6MT/stang2.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...6MT/stang3.jpg
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Old 03-22-2008, 01:02 PM   #2
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Welcome to the board! If you are missing the catalytic converters, then having the MIL Eliminators will prevent the code from appearing...check E-bay as there are several stores listing that item around $65 a pair.
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Old 03-22-2008, 02:22 PM   #3
98BlueSVT
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Well I have cats I just don't have the o2 plugs that go behind them....another concern would that cause fuel to cut off past 3\4 throttle not so much cut off but spit a bit
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:55 PM   #4
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Welcome to the boards. First thing I would do is put it on the dyno and get a few pulls to see if everything is running where it is supposed to. Have fun with it.
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Old 03-22-2008, 09:35 PM   #5
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yea i plan on it very soon... i just want to get what bugs i know it has fixed first before i pay for a dyno... i found my 02 errors today and fixed one of them but still confused on the other two... one of my 02's were unplugged so i just plugged it back in simple fix.... the rear 2 have the 02 sims pluged into the harness but there is no actual sensor plugged in to the harness so thats my other 2 so i gotta pick some of those up... quick question tho... when using the 02 sims are the sensor actually supposed to go into the exhaust.... and if so is there any way to not put them into the exhaust as my exhaust has no mounts for the rear sensors... so im not quite sure what to do with them...also whats the best way to clean a MAF... just incase tahts whats causing me to lose power when i get on it
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Old 03-22-2008, 11:28 PM   #6
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I was told to use throttle body cleaner but don't quote me on that. The reason I was saying to put it on the dyno is because you said you were have problems with full throttle. That could be a lack of fuel and possibly leaning out, which is very bad. Fuel pump could be bad and not delivering enuf fuel at WOT. Just a thought. A dyno run is cheap insurance (about $60) and the tuner will usually have HP and torque #'s as well as A/F ratio #'s.
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1999 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2001 SVT Lightning 408RWHP 501 RWTQ, 12.6 @107 in 1/4 mile & 8.0 @89 in 1/8 on street tires (SOLD)
1993 Chevy camaro Z-28 (SOLD)
1970 VW Bug W/ 1776cc (SOLD)
2007 autofair pics http://www.svtcobraclub.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=15621
Drag racing pics: http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/c...vtcobra/drags/
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Old 03-23-2008, 08:41 AM   #7
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MAF sensor should be cleaned with CRC MAF Sensor cleaner. It can be found at most auto parts stores. It works great.
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:11 AM   #8
98BlueSVT
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Thank you both... ill prob pick some MAF cleaner up tommorow and pray.... now i just have to find a tune shop with a dyno....
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:49 AM   #9
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04redsvtcobra is right. Best diagnostic tool is to put your 98 on the dyno. I recently put mine on the dyno and found my engine was running real lean due to dirty MAF. Also found out my head gaskets were leaking causing loss compression on 3 cylinders. $1,800 head gasket replacement and a sct xcal2 tune straightened out my loss of compression problem. Speedo gear for your 4:10 gears can be found on ebay or at americanmuscle online store. I also think the o2 cdes can be fixed with the tuner.
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98BlueSVT
Well hello all I picked up my 98SVT thursday and have been toying around with it, the car already has SLP catback exhaust and 4.10's and a few other minor things, ill post pics when i can. I bought the car with a CEL but the codes were 02 sensors so i figured it was due to the exhaust. I love the car and it will be see a lot of mods in the near future but i'm just curious if anyone know where i can get a 02sim for my car so that i can get rid of the CEL if the exhaust is what's causing it....any help will be appreciated

NOTE: after climbing around the car i noticed the 2 rear 02 sensors are gone and the plugs are just zip tied away so i am assumeing thats whats throwing the codes listed below. But any help will be appreciated. Also i'm looking into what mods are best bang for the buck and the best place to get parts. And another thing anyone know how much a dealer charges to fix the speedo from the gears?

P1151 - Lack of 02 switches Bank 2 sensor 1
P0161 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0156 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0136 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0155 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0141 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2

The car isn't clean yet i'm stuck at work all weekend, so thank you all in advance.

Although installing MIL eliminators might fix the "Sensor 2" (rear O-2 sensor) errors, the "Sensor 1" errors seem to indicate a faulty upstream (front) O-2 sensor. I might be wrong, but I believe that "Bank 2, Sensor 1" is the left (driver's) side front O-2 sensor, for cylinders 5 through 8. Bosch makes premium O-2 sensors that are actually an upgrade, to replace the OEM sensors. (The regular OEM replacement sensors were discontinued by Bosch, as there was only about $12 difference in price, and the premium sensors improve both gas mileage and performance.) The Bosch premium O-2 sensors are available at both NAPA Auto Parts and Advance Auto Parts ($65 each + tax at NAPA, $72 each + tax at Advance). The Bosch part number for the sensors is part#13127 (for both front and rear sensors).

The computer (EEC) uses only the front O-2 sensors to tune the engine, so the "P0161, P0156, P0136", and "P0141" error codes are not as big a deal as are the "P1151" and "P0155" OBD-II error codes. A defective front O-2 sensor will inhibit the car from tuning properly as it runs, and this might be what is causing hesitation during acceleration. Before cleaning the MAF meter, you might try replacing both front O-2 sensors, after disconnecting the battery's negative terminal. (If you replace the front O-2 sensors, be careful not to touch the active part of the sensor as you install it, as this might cause contamination of the sensor, and, like thermocouples, O-2 sensors cannot be cleaned once contaminated.)

Also, in some cases, installing MIL eliminators does not get rid of the rear O-2 sensor "Check Engine" lamps. (It didn't in my case, and I ultimately had to install an SCT programmable chip and have the rear O-2 sensors turned off through the EPROM programming of the SCT chip.) Further, you might look again at the tie-wrapped section of the rear sensors to see if the sensors might not already be connected to MIL eliminators, and just pushed aside because the off-road pipe installed has no rear O-2 sensor ports:

Mustangs Unlimited, MIL Eliminators

Most off-road pipes still have sensor ports, so it is a mystery to me why the person who worked on your car would want to merely tie-wrap the sensors to one side. People have varying opinions on the matter, but my vote is that the best set-up for Modular Cobra X-pipe exhaust--finances permitting--is to install the Bassani Stainless Steel X-Pipe w/ Removable Cats
That way, one has the option of moving to a state where under-car visual inspection is called for during emissions tests.
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Old 03-31-2008, 02:06 PM   #11
98BlueSVT
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thank you very much, i found out why my sensor 1 code came up it was unplugged and im going to order a tuner to get the rear 2 turned off so i can fix that too, but as of now im still having my sputtering problem... i cant quite figure it out as sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesnt... the other day it really got me i down shifted and it just sputtered and and felt like it was cutting fuel i dont know if i have possibly bad gas (currently working on running her dry) or somethings clogged or stuck... i bought some seafoam cleaner im going to try to run some of that through and see if it helps... but that brings me to a question... what is the best way to run seafoam through?
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:34 PM   #12
red04svtcobra
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Dont ever run a fuel tank dry. The fuel pump is submerged in the fuel and needs the fuel to remain cool, if not you may end up burning the pump up. I never drive mine any lower than 1/4 tank. This is from what I have read.
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2004 Torch Red SVT Coupe (SOLD)
1999 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2001 SVT Lightning 408RWHP 501 RWTQ, 12.6 @107 in 1/4 mile & 8.0 @89 in 1/8 on street tires (SOLD)
1993 Chevy camaro Z-28 (SOLD)
1970 VW Bug W/ 1776cc (SOLD)
2007 autofair pics http://www.svtcobraclub.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=15621
Drag racing pics: http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/c...vtcobra/drags/
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Old 04-04-2008, 06:32 PM   #13
98BlueSVT
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Ok well I finally ran my Seafoam through the vacume line and it huffed and puffed and blew alot of **** out but after getting on it she still bogs down in high RPM's.... so im still working on that problem.... any other ideas... next steps... i pulled my plugs they still look like theyre in good shape and the wires look aftermarket (blue with 1-8) so im assumeing theyre newish.... its really embarassing to drop a gear and get on it to find out your car thinks otherwise.... so any ideas are appreciated.... and thank you for all the help thus far
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Old 04-04-2008, 08:42 PM   #14
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Have you had your IMRC plates cleaned? Maybe they are sticking when you gun it?
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Old 04-05-2008, 07:56 AM   #15
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No I havent yet... not a bad start tho i guess... Ill see if i can get to that this weekend. How much coolant do you exactly have to drain to get the crossover out... easy way to do it? easy way to fill it back up so theres not any air bubbles?

(EDIT) also i dont have a haynes manual yet so know where i can get tq specs?
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