Need to "hook" now

STANGBUM · 04-17-2002, 10:15 AM

With what I have done to SSSNAKE I need To hook it up,

Spins way too much.

Need a plan of action, can't afford everything at once, so how should I add to suspension as I go.

which or what to add first

I have been told upper and lower control arms first? Is this true or something else first?

smashedheadcat · 04-17-2002, 03:00 PM

It's been recommended to me by BADPNY, that a good set of adjustable upper control arms and a good set of lower control arms. Also, he recommended 25x11x15 ET DRAGs with a set of drag lites. I'm gonna go for that "bolt on" coil over rear kit that ground pounder makes. The price for the uppers and lowers are about the same as the coil over kit. There was an article in mm&ff or 50mustang and superford a few months ago that had the installation of the coil-over kit. Looked pretty cut and dry, so i'm gonna try it. It'll take me a few months before i can round up the $$ to do it. Dyno tune is next on my list.

'97blacksnake · 04-20-2002, 03:33 PM

I just did the full steeda drag suspension: drag pak 1 & 2 plus frame connectors & crossbrace.

what a difference! on the #1 (drag) setting, the front lifts up, the rear digs in, and the car hooks. obviously, i still spin the wheels in first with the bridgestone RE730's and briefly break loose in 2nd but it is far better than before. when i get the nitto DR's on and heated, i expect to really launch hard. hope i get my 60 foots down from a best of 2.04 into the 1.8 range.

a side benefit is that at any speed, the sensation of weight transfer makes it feel much faster even if i already have traction. its a just a blast to drive!

svt_coupe · 05-13-2002, 11:13 AM

Yes, the inexpensive way to get hooked up in a straight line is to go with control arms. Steeda's drag setup mentioned is a pretty good start. I'd have to say the LCA's are more important first. When you go with a set of arms 1) stay with the same manufacturer for upper and lower - they make them to work together - bushing durometer rates are different and need to be designed to work with each other 2) be weary of super stiff, heim-joint style arms - they can tear up your torque boxes if you have the power to do so or thrash the car. Not all heim-jointed arms are bad, but there are some that are designed to be used with the reinforced torque boxes.

Now... if you want the rear suspension for the twisties, more suggestions could be made...

**cobrabitn** · 05-13-2002, 11:43 AM

Rule number one: lowering springs
Rule number two: drag radials.

These worked for me on my IRS Cobra!

svt_coupe · 05-13-2002, 11:56 AM

Rule number one won't do anything for traction...

Also, he's got a 97, not one of those fancy IRS cars.

STANGBUM · 05-21-2002, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by svt_coupe
Yes, the inexpensive way to get hooked up in a straight line is to go with control arms. Steeda's drag setup mentioned is a pretty good start. I'd have to say the LCA's are more important first. When you go with a set of arms 1) stay with the same manufacturer for upper and lower - they make them to work together - bushing durometer rates are different and need to be designed to work with each other 2) be weary of super stiff, heim-joint style arms - they can tear up your torque boxes if you have the power to do so or thrash the car. Not all heim-jointed arms are bad, but there are some that are designed to be used with the reinforced torque boxes.

Now... if you want the rear suspension for the twisties, more suggestions could be made...

ok, so go with upper and lower control arms

so what brand would you reccomend for my set up

svt_coupe · 05-21-2002, 01:24 PM

This is for straight line stuff? Handling?

Either way, Maximum Motorsports and Steeda are both good choices. They have slightly different approaches to suspension theory as far as replacing or keeping the stock UCA bushings on the rear axle housing. I replaced mine and went with Steeda's polyurethane bushings and have been happy with them. Some say that these promote bind, but I have yet to have any real problems with them (beyond what the normal 4-link, "stock" setup will give you).

I'm sure some will disagree... but Steeda is probably the king of "control arm only" suspensions (meaning, if you aren't going the Panhard bar/Torque arm route). They have a variety of different arms with different bushing rates for different applications. Then again, Maximum Motorsports does too.

There are others out there as well that are very competent too. The ever-popular Griggs is a choice too... HPM.... etc

STANGBUM · 05-21-2002, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by svt_coupe
This is for straight line stuff? Handling?

Either way, Maximum Motorsports and Steeda are both good choices. They have slightly different approaches to suspension theory as far as replacing or keeping the stock UCA bushings on the rear axle housing. I replaced mine and went with Steeda's polyurethane bushings and have been happy with them. Some say that these promote bind, but I have yet to have any real problems with them (beyond what the normal 4-link, "stock" setup will give you).

I'm sure some will disagree... but Steeda is probably the king of "control arm only" suspensions (meaning, if you aren't going the Panhard bar/Torque arm route). They have a variety of different arms with different bushing rates for different applications. Then again, Maximum Motorsports does too.

There are others out there as well that are very competent too. The ever-popular Griggs is a choice too... HPM.... etc

mostly straight line

STANGBUM · 05-21-2002, 03:15 PM

I have read in some other threads that Steeda is not easy to deal with.

STANGBUM · 05-21-2002, 03:16 PM

any kind of deal with Maximum Motorsports?

STANGBUM · 05-21-2002, 03:19 PM

what would I need after conrol arms?

04-17-2002, 03:00 PM	#2
smashedheadcat Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Geneva, Switzerland Posts: 1,727	It's been recommended to me by BADPNY, that a good set of adjustable upper control arms and a good set of lower control arms. Also, he recommended 25x11x15 ET DRAGs with a set of drag lites. I'm gonna go for that "bolt on" coil over rear kit that ground pounder makes. The price for the uppers and lowers are about the same as the coil over kit. There was an article in mm&ff or 50mustang and superford a few months ago that had the installation of the coil-over kit. Looked pretty cut and dry, so i'm gonna try it. It'll take me a few months before i can round up the $$ to do it. Dyno tune is next on my list. __________________ Josh 2003 Oxford White Cobra Coupe Twin Turbo Solid Axle Automatic Return Fuel System 1997 Triple Black Cobra Convertible Forged and Blown. 511rwhp 398 rwtq Sold

04-20-2002, 03:33 PM	#3
'97blacksnake Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Northampton, MA Posts: 9	I just did the full steeda drag suspension: drag pak 1 & 2 plus frame connectors & crossbrace. what a difference! on the #1 (drag) setting, the front lifts up, the rear digs in, and the car hooks. obviously, i still spin the wheels in first with the bridgestone RE730's and briefly break loose in 2nd but it is far better than before. when i get the nitto DR's on and heated, i expect to really launch hard. hope i get my 60 foots down from a best of 2.04 into the 1.8 range. a side benefit is that at any speed, the sensation of weight transfer makes it feel much faster even if i already have traction. its a just a blast to drive! __________________ '97 black on black coupe: #5638 271 rwhp best 1/4 mile: 13.76 @ 103.23 w/ 2.04 60 ft FMS 4.10's Steeda Triax MAC CAI Bassani X with cats 2 Chamber Flowmaster catback

05-13-2002, 11:13 AM	#4
svt_coupe Bryan Shugg Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 817	Yes, the inexpensive way to get hooked up in a straight line is to go with control arms. Steeda's drag setup mentioned is a pretty good start. I'd have to say the LCA's are more important first. When you go with a set of arms 1) stay with the same manufacturer for upper and lower - they make them to work together - bushing durometer rates are different and need to be designed to work with each other 2) be weary of super stiff, heim-joint style arms - they can tear up your torque boxes if you have the power to do so or thrash the car. Not all heim-jointed arms are bad, but there are some that are designed to be used with the reinforced torque boxes. Now... if you want the rear suspension for the twisties, more suggestions could be made... __________________ Bryan Shugg #67 American Iron East

05-13-2002, 11:43 AM	#5
cobrabitn Dr Jekyll on the street, Mr Hyde on the track Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Rock Hill SC Posts: 14,649	Rule number one: lowering springs Rule number two: drag radials. These worked for me on my IRS Cobra! __________________ Cobrabitn 2016 Ruby Red Metallic with Caribou accent F-350 Crew Cab Stump Puller! 6.7 Diesel Automatic with Chrome Package, Off Road Package, 3.55 Locking axles, and Ultimate Lariat Interior Trim Package! 2017 Shelby GT350 Coupe - track car! Mods: JLT True Cold Air oil catch can 2009 Vista Blue Shelby GT 500 Coupe - Garage Queen Tinted Windows JLT True Cold Air Kit Pro-Dyno Tune 526 rwhp - 511 rwtq 1994 Rio Red Indy Pace Car #22 "Runabout" Snake in the grill MGW shift knob 1996 SVT Cobra Wheels 1969 New Lime Mustang Mach 1 Sportsroof - Second owner - bone stock with shaker. One SVT Cobra, one Shelby GT500, one 69 mach 1, and a Shelby GT350 is better than nothing! Custom Data Plates for your Mustang or Ford! Buy "Cool Merchandise" at Data Plates Plus www.dataplatesplus.com See my MSR Video here!

05-13-2002, 11:56 AM	#6
svt_coupe Bryan Shugg Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 817	Rule number one won't do anything for traction... Also, he's got a 97, not one of those fancy IRS cars. __________________ Bryan Shugg #67 American Iron East

04-17-2002, 10:15 AM	#1
STANGBUM "Love that Boost" Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Asheville,N.C. Posts: 771	Need to "hook" now With what I have done to SSSNAKE I need To hook it up, Spins way too much. Need a plan of action, can't afford everything at once, so how should I add to suspension as I go. which or what to add first I have been told upper and lower control arms first? Is this true or something else first? __________________ http://brmcoa.org/ 1997 Cobra #3843 Born 3/18/97 2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back Vortech S/C V2 MSD DIS4 Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge FMS 4:10 ring & pinion Kenny Brown Subs MM Caster/Camber Plates Eibach Pro Kit Pro 5.0 shifter 401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE

05-21-2002, 01:24 PM	#8
svt_coupe Bryan Shugg Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 817	This is for straight line stuff? Handling? Either way, Maximum Motorsports and Steeda are both good choices. They have slightly different approaches to suspension theory as far as replacing or keeping the stock UCA bushings on the rear axle housing. I replaced mine and went with Steeda's polyurethane bushings and have been happy with them. Some say that these promote bind, but I have yet to have any real problems with them (beyond what the normal 4-link, "stock" setup will give you). I'm sure some will disagree... but Steeda is probably the king of "control arm only" suspensions (meaning, if you aren't going the Panhard bar/Torque arm route). They have a variety of different arms with different bushing rates for different applications. Then again, Maximum Motorsports does too. There are others out there as well that are very competent too. The ever-popular Griggs is a choice too... HPM.... etc __________________ Bryan Shugg #67 American Iron East

05-21-2002, 03:15 PM	#10
STANGBUM "Love that Boost" Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Asheville,N.C. Posts: 771	I have read in some other threads that Steeda is not easy to deal with. __________________ http://brmcoa.org/ 1997 Cobra #3843 Born 3/18/97 2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back Vortech S/C V2 MSD DIS4 Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge FMS 4:10 ring & pinion Kenny Brown Subs MM Caster/Camber Plates Eibach Pro Kit Pro 5.0 shifter 401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE

05-21-2002, 03:16 PM	#11
STANGBUM "Love that Boost" Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Asheville,N.C. Posts: 771	any kind of deal with Maximum Motorsports? __________________ http://brmcoa.org/ 1997 Cobra #3843 Born 3/18/97 2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back Vortech S/C V2 MSD DIS4 Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge FMS 4:10 ring & pinion Kenny Brown Subs MM Caster/Camber Plates Eibach Pro Kit Pro 5.0 shifter 401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE

05-21-2002, 03:19 PM	#12
STANGBUM "Love that Boost" Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Asheville,N.C. Posts: 771	what would I need after conrol arms? __________________ http://brmcoa.org/ 1997 Cobra #3843 Born 3/18/97 2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back Vortech S/C V2 MSD DIS4 Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge FMS 4:10 ring & pinion Kenny Brown Subs MM Caster/Camber Plates Eibach Pro Kit Pro 5.0 shifter 401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE

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