![]() |
![]() |
#1 |
Registered User
|
Best L/T combo for 4.6 4V
I'm seriously looking into purchasing some long tubes now and I was curious as to everyone's experiences with them. I've read coutless posts on how bad Mac's are on the 96-98's so I'm staying clear of them. Anyone have any other info for me on this?
Thanks.
__________________
Mods........yep I have some ![]() 98Cobra #1048 of 5174 AIM: stcldsaus |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Registered User
|
I got Kooks headers through JDM Performance and they have been doing the job so far!
![]()
__________________
2008 Shelby GT500 White w/Blue Stripes STOCK AND STAYING THAT WAY! Kenny Brown '01 Cobra S Serial # 01-047C True Blue Performance Forged Short Block FR500 Heads & Cams, Fluidyne Radiator McLeod Clutch and aluminum flywheel Aluminum Driveshaft, UPR adjustable clutch cable GT40 Fuel Tank & pumps, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump, 60lb injectors, Vortech T-Trim W/After Cooler, 2.9" RR Pulley Anderson Power Pipe, Accufab Throttle Body (USELESS IMHO), MGW Shifter with the blue handle KB Oil Cooling system, KB Differential Cooler Autometer Phantom boost and fuel pressure guages Kenny Brown Aero Kit, Kooks LT Headers H-Pipe with H-flow cats, Bassani Cat Back Snow Boost Cooler T56 Six Speed Tranny MGW BLING-BLING interior stuff 645RWHP and 558RWTQ |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 313
|
I've seen nothing but good stuff about the Kooks. Not sure if tranny comes out with them in. Robert Hindman runs a set on his car and he tells me you can't drop the tranny with them in, but that there has been a design change so maybe you can. He also tells me they are the easiest LT's to install. I'll attach a few pics of a set of these.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 313
|
pic of Kooks header
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 313
|
another
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 313
|
another one
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 313
|
one more
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Registered User
|
Thanks for the info and pics guys. I really haven't heard much about the Kooks.
I do have the lead on a set of used BBK's with a hi flow X pipe that I'm working on. Any negatives/positives with them? They price is right on them.
__________________
Mods........yep I have some ![]() 98Cobra #1048 of 5174 AIM: stcldsaus |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 313
|
I've never heard anything real bad about the BBK headers. Several people here are running them. You can't remove your tranny with them installed and the install is a little harder as they are not individual tube/slip fit collector design like the Kooks. If the price is right, I wouldn't be afraid of them.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | |
Registered User
|
Re: Best L/T combo for 4.6 4V
Quote:
They go with an offroad x-pipe; so if you want to stay legal you might have to buy some cats and weld them in. That is the only reason they aren't on my car right now (also because there is a 25% chance you will start burning some mad oil with any longtube) ![]()
__________________
Smell the 93 octane New Redfire 03 in the stable! 98 Black Cobra Coupe (sold RIP) Mods: Steeda Sport Springs, K&N Filter, Flowmaster 2-chambers, King Cobra Clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax, FMS 4.10 Ring and Pinion, FMS Aluminum Driveshaft, clear corners, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, Heavy Duty Steeda rear uppers, 100mm Densecharger full length CAI, Royal Purple, FR500 Steering wheel, Kenny Brown sub-frame connectors, Tokico Illuminas, Steeda LCA's, Bassani X-pipe w/cats, C&L 80mm mass air |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Registered User
|
This is what I ended up working out the deal on. It's a set of BBK ceramic coated long tubes and a "prototype" stainless Hi Flow X pipe:
__________________
Mods........yep I have some ![]() 98Cobra #1048 of 5174 AIM: stcldsaus |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Registered User
|
I guess i'm a little late, but I figured i'd chime in anyway. The BBK's are great pieces. They are hard to install, but Not any harder than any other long tube. I think disassmbling a kooks header, and then trying to get it back together would be more trouble than what it's worth. I witnessed an install of kooks long tube headers on a 98 yellow cobra at true blue. They were having some major problems getting it right. Biggest issue was getting the steering shaft back in place. They ended up going with a flaming river piece to get it together. Many curse words, and wishes for BBK's were heard in the shop that day. They are great for 99-up cobras, but the 98 was painful. With BBKs, it's not that hard. Time consuming........ yes, but not too bad. I was able to twist the engine enough to get the headers in and out rather easily. I accomplished this after learning my lesson the first time. You've got some good headers there, and i'm sure you'll be happy with them. Make sure you get o2 extension wires though.
__________________
Josh 2003 Oxford White Cobra Coupe Twin Turbo Solid Axle Automatic Return Fuel System 1997 Triple Black Cobra Convertible Forged and Blown. 511rwhp 398 rwtq *Sold* |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 | |
Registered User
|
Quote:
I'm kind of lost on what to do.
__________________
Mods........yep I have some ![]() 98Cobra #1048 of 5174 AIM: stcldsaus |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Registered User
|
The headers look impossible to do, but it gets a lot easier. First off, if you don't have a lift, jack the front of the car and put jack stands under there. Get it high, but not too high. You need to be able to work from the top of the car as well. I took the wheels off, to better access everything under there. You don't have to do that, but it made it easier for me. Then, disconnect the battery, and remove the existing H-pipe. Remove the nuts from the engine mounts. There's only one on each side. There's an access hole in the K-member for you to stick a socket with an extension through. From there (I used a cherry picker) move the engine up as high as you possibly can without ripping wires and such. It's easy to tell if it's snagged up on something. If you don't have a cherry picker, a floor jack with piece of wood on it will do. Just put it under the oil pan. The directions say that you need to remove the starter to do the job, but I didn't have to. From there, it's just a battle of getting the bolts in. With a cherry picker, you can twist the engine as need be, which helps a lot. This job is a frustrating one, but it's a definate learning expirience. Be prepared to have some cut up knuckles, and have beer on-hand, it's a battle. One big help for me as to keep the emission tubes off of the driver side header until you get it in there. It just doesn't feed through if it's on there. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Send any reply here, or PM. I'll help as much as I can.
__________________
Josh 2003 Oxford White Cobra Coupe Twin Turbo Solid Axle Automatic Return Fuel System 1997 Triple Black Cobra Convertible Forged and Blown. 511rwhp 398 rwtq *Sold* |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Registered User
|
Josh,
Thanks for the help man that really made the install a little more down to earth for me if that makes sense. I've got some instructions and some buddies to help out but I'll definately let you know if I have any other questions. Oh yeah, one more question......do you absolutely have to remove the K-member to do the job? Most guys say it makes it much easier....but from the looks of it, it would be more of a pain to remove it and then re-install it.
__________________
Mods........yep I have some ![]() 98Cobra #1048 of 5174 AIM: stcldsaus |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|