Updating '94 PAce Car suspension

frogbit · 03-22-2005, 08:50 PM

I would like to upgrade the suspension on my 94 Cobra but don't want to go far from original. Any tips on what I can do to tighten things up? Car wanders a little....

Aaron94 · 03-24-2005, 02:34 PM

Eibach pro-kit lowering springs (aprox 1" - 1 1/4") and some good aftermarket shocks/struts. Lots of choices here... I am pretty happy with my Koni Reds.

Other little things... a urethane bushing kit.

After that some C/C plates will really change your front end, and steering feel. You may want to consider the C/C plates the same time as you lower it, as you may need to correct camber.

Just my .02 on getting some suspension going.

My friend has a stock 95 Cobra, and the handling feel of my car compared to his is drastic. I have more mods than the initial ones stated here though...

95Cobra · 04-02-2005, 06:13 PM

Don't forget sub's and upper and lower rear control arms. You will be glad you did these mods!!

VoodooChild · 04-03-2005, 12:13 AM

Hey frogbit,
I am doing the same to mine. I have been gathering parts the last couple of months and hopefully I will be ready to start installing next month.
The only mods I have on it now are 3.73's, Steeda tri-ax, Saleen light bar, silencer delete/K&N, and O/R H-Pipe.

So far I have in the garage still in boxes waiting for install:

EBC Sport Rotors & Green Pads
Hotckis Caster/Camber Plates
Maximum Motorsports strut tower Brace
Maximum Motorsports Full length subframe connector

Still to order:
Springs / Stuts & Shocks

Here is a question for those who are running H&R's

I talked to Maximum Motorsports about the suspension project for my car and they recommended the H&R Race springs with either the Bilstein or Tokico illumina's. Now I checked on their site and the Race is the only one they have listed for DropTops...
My question is how do they ride on the street?? They are rated at 750-850 on the fronts, and 260-280 on the rear. Factory is 400 front, and 160 rear. I assume that the ride will not be as soft as factory but is it going to beat me and the wife to death if we decide to take a trip in the car?? The guy at MM also said that the SuperSports would work, but I would get an uneven stance due to the springs are for a Hardtop and the weight difference and the spring height difference might be drastic... I guess its one of those "gas mileage may vary" claims. Anyone running H&R's please fill me in on the ride quality of these, as I am going to order next week.

venomous · 04-03-2005, 12:17 AM

I have the H&R Sport springs on my car, and the ride is pretty close to factory. Lwered the car about 1-1.25 around.

VoodooChild · 04-03-2005, 09:40 PM

Well I have the strut tower brace installed (15 mins)

And I am in the process of installing the SubFrame Connectors. I have the pass. side in and half the welding done. The kit is pretty straight forward, and the only modification I had to do was notch one of the ears on the forward mount. I figure that I will be able to have the car down off the lift and drive it mid-week. If I could figure out how to post a photo, I could show you my lack of welding skills.

flynfink · 04-04-2005, 04:18 PM

boy talk about a thread hijack.

Frogbit, what Aaron said is correct. a good set of lowering springs (several of our vendors give club discounts), some ureathane bushings for the rear and caster/camber plates.

We just did our 94' that way and it made a huge difference - One other note, while you are looking at doing this, new rear lower control arm's and either boxing in the stock upper rear control arm's or going after market is well worth the $$. We went with all Steeda (springs, CC plates, steel Rear LCA's and boxed our stock rear UCA's and all urathane bushings) because of there reputations and our club discount.

My $ 0.02 worth,

VoodooChild · 04-05-2005, 06:22 PM

Dang, sorry bout that... got carried away, got excited about so many Indy's here.... LOL

frogbit, that is why I am doing mine. To tighten it up... Mine only wanders on uneven pavement, there is a road in town here that is real bad and is an instant lane change if you are not careful..

From what I gather the bushings go south real quick on our cars.. maybe we should change those while we are doing everything else.

Butcher · 04-12-2005, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VoodooChild

Dang, sorry bout that... got carried away, got excited about so many Indy's here.... LOL

frogbit, that is why I am doing mine. To tighten it up... Mine only wanders on uneven pavement, there is a road in town here that is real bad and is an instant lane change if you are not careful..

From what I gather the bushings go south real quick on our cars.. maybe we should change those while we are doing everything else.

Again, everything is relative. If you want to do mild street mods, and roadrace the car, yep. If you are ultimately ending up another route, research your alternatives. EVERYTHING is relative.

Jimmie

03-22-2005, 08:50 PM	#1
frogbit Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 13	Updating '94 PAce Car suspension I would like to upgrade the suspension on my 94 Cobra but don't want to go far from original. Any tips on what I can do to tighten things up? Car wanders a little.... __________________ Frogbit 1994 Cobra Pace Car #194/1000

03-24-2005, 02:34 PM	#2
Aaron94 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 308	Eibach pro-kit lowering springs (aprox 1" - 1 1/4") and some good aftermarket shocks/struts. Lots of choices here... I am pretty happy with my Koni Reds. Other little things... a urethane bushing kit. After that some C/C plates will really change your front end, and steering feel. You may want to consider the C/C plates the same time as you lower it, as you may need to correct camber. Just my .02 on getting some suspension going. My friend has a stock 95 Cobra, and the handling feel of my car compared to his is drastic. I have more mods than the initial ones stated here though... __________________ 1994 Rio Red Coupe #3564 304 ci, GT40X Aluminum Heads, Extrude Honed and Polished intake, Motorsport F303 cam, vortech fuel rails, 77 mm Pro-M mass air, 70mm BBK T-Body, Smog pump deletion, MSD and Perfomance distributors ignition components, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-axe, King Cobra/Centerforce clutch, Custom 3" Alum Driveshaft, 3.55 Gears, Griggs rear suspension w/torque arm & pan hard bar, Koni Red Shocks/Struts

04-02-2005, 06:13 PM	#3
95Cobra Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Waterford MI Posts: 72	Don't forget sub's and upper and lower rear control arms. You will be glad you did these mods!! __________________ 95 White Cobra #259 Black Leather Procharged P1SC, 9PSI, AFR165's, extrude honed Cobra intake, custom cam, 42#'s, 75 Pro-m, 75mm t/body, full Mac, TKO-600, macloud twin friction, Eaton, 31 spline. Much more..... Safe dyno #'s 427RWHP 434RWTQ

04-03-2005, 12:17 AM	#5
venomous Polk County Redneck Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Polk County, NC Posts: 557	I have the H&R Sport springs on my car, and the ride is pretty close to factory. Lwered the car about 1-1.25 around. __________________ ~1995 "Rio Red" Cobra #3379 of 4005 2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ

04-04-2005, 04:18 PM	#7
flynfink Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 1,002	post redirect - back to Frogbit boy talk about a thread hijack. Frogbit, what Aaron said is correct. a good set of lowering springs (several of our vendors give club discounts), some ureathane bushings for the rear and caster/camber plates. We just did our 94' that way and it made a huge difference - One other note, while you are looking at doing this, new rear lower control arm's and either boxing in the stock upper rear control arm's or going after market is well worth the $$. We went with all Steeda (springs, CC plates, steel Rear LCA's and boxed our stock rear UCA's and all urathane bushings) because of there reputations and our club discount. My $ 0.02 worth, __________________ Jeff F. AKA FlynFink 07' Porscha Cayman S 99' Rio Red Cobra Vert. #203 of 4055 94' Black Cobra Coupe #4971 of 5009 "Drive it like ya stole it"

04-03-2005, 12:13 AM	#4
VoodooChild Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 4	Hey frogbit, I am doing the same to mine. I have been gathering parts the last couple of months and hopefully I will be ready to start installing next month. The only mods I have on it now are 3.73's, Steeda tri-ax, Saleen light bar, silencer delete/K&N, and O/R H-Pipe. So far I have in the garage still in boxes waiting for install: EBC Sport Rotors & Green Pads Hotckis Caster/Camber Plates Maximum Motorsports strut tower Brace Maximum Motorsports Full length subframe connector Still to order: Springs / Stuts & Shocks Here is a question for those who are running H&R's I talked to Maximum Motorsports about the suspension project for my car and they recommended the H&R Race springs with either the Bilstein or Tokico illumina's. Now I checked on their site and the Race is the only one they have listed for DropTops... My question is how do they ride on the street?? They are rated at 750-850 on the fronts, and 260-280 on the rear. Factory is 400 front, and 160 rear. I assume that the ride will not be as soft as factory but is it going to beat me and the wife to death if we decide to take a trip in the car?? The guy at MM also said that the SuperSports would work, but I would get an uneven stance due to the springs are for a Hardtop and the weight difference and the spring height difference might be drastic... I guess its one of those "gas mileage may vary" claims. Anyone running H&R's please fill me in on the ride quality of these, as I am going to order next week.

04-03-2005, 09:40 PM	#6
VoodooChild Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 4	Well I have the strut tower brace installed (15 mins) And I am in the process of installing the SubFrame Connectors. I have the pass. side in and half the welding done. The kit is pretty straight forward, and the only modification I had to do was notch one of the ears on the forward mount. I figure that I will be able to have the car down off the lift and drive it mid-week. If I could figure out how to post a photo, I could show you my lack of welding skills.

04-05-2005, 06:22 PM	#8
VoodooChild Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 4	Dang, sorry bout that... got carried away, got excited about so many Indy's here.... LOL frogbit, that is why I am doing mine. To tighten it up... Mine only wanders on uneven pavement, there is a road in town here that is real bad and is an instant lane change if you are not careful.. From what I gather the bushings go south real quick on our cars.. maybe we should change those while we are doing everything else.

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